Completed my Expedition back at Sydney, several weeks ago.
As a finale, I visited the Grave of Major Thomas Livingston Mitchell, at the Newtown Cemetery. It was very moving to see his grave, in this beautiful site, tho I’m sure he would have preferred to have been buried in bonny Scotland.

My return journey through NSW was very different to most of the previous, as it mainly followed major roads, including the Hume Highway: having first been traversed by Hume and Hovell in 1824, then Mitchell in 1836, and soon after by the ‘overlanders’ flooding from Sydney in hot pursuit of the fine lands Mitchell had described in such glowing terms.

Once again, the contrast between Victoria and NSW was marked by much larger Land holdings / farms. Clearly, Victoria was more fertile, and had quite different settlement patterns. Travelling through Victoria, following Mitchell’s track, was far more often through small country towns, and along back lanes and roads – consequently, more interesting, and very pretty, verdant green in its’ Spring flourish.

It is amazing to think also, about the speed at which the lands had been ‘taken up’ by squatters and settlers. Sydney was beginning to swell with new emigrants from England, Scotland, Ireland & the Continent, so there was a huge thirst for new lands. To this end, Mitchell made a huge contribution. There are many elements to this colonial expansion, especially in regard to the Indigenous peoples. They were rapidly dislocated/ ‘dispersed’ from their ancestral lands. And about this, I feel terribly sad.

I believe it is very important to understand and embrace this aspect about Mitchell, and the early explorers / settlers. It was not a peaceful ‘settlement’, but a violent invasion, and needs to be spoken of in these terms. It is amazing to me, how ‘politely’ our society has defined and described this process : denigrating the Indigenous peoples, and eventually making them ‘invisible’. We need only to recognise the multitude of Aboriginal names of Places, to understand that the clans and tribes owned and cultivated all of the Land. Sadly also, the most fertile and productive sites- on waterways, etc, were most rapidly ‘taken up’, with the ancestral owners either killed, or ‘dispersed’. A profound Apology to this extraordinary and ancient culture and Peoples, for these terrible actions and outcomes.

Following the completion of my Journey in Sydney, I returned to Mount Canobolas and Boree. Soon after I was joined by an old friend and Botanist: Sandy Cochrane. We then spent a further 10 days on the road, revisiting some of the sites, to observe and record the ecology. It was fascinating to see the land, flora, fauna, and especially waterways. Having travelled through, initially in the autumn, soon after rain. Now to see it again in the Spring time, after a wonderfully wet winter. The changes were amazing: creeks, dams and waterways now brimming: singing and croaking with life. Many of the trees, previously struggling with the effects of prolonged drought, again beginning to flourish with new growth. Conversely, the weeds were also in abundance, with a purple haze over much of the country, due to Pattersons Curse blooming in all its’ glory.

And now, back in Castlemaine.
So much to do! I have immersed myself in the process of painting my Exhibition: quite a task as there is So much to say. and so many questions from the Journey to explore.

My fascination in Mitchell continues to grow, and I believe many of the answers to my questions lie in Mitchells’ ‘correspondence’ – he was a great letter writer. Fortunately, the task of researching these documents is made easier with the use of ‘search engines’, and that many of the documents, letters, and articles are held by our State Librarys. There is much research to do.

The Event of Major Mitchell –175 years. 1836 – 2011, also requires much organization. At this stage I am feeling a little overwhelmed by it all, and I hope to ‘come up for air’ quite soon.

October 27.

Brightly shone the sun, the sky was dressed in blue and gold and “the

fields were full of star-like flowers, and overgrown with joy,”* on the

first day of my ride homeward along the green banks of the Murrumbidgee,

having crossed the river in a small canoe that morning. Seven months had

elapsed since I had seen either a road or a bridge although during that

time I had travelled over two thousand four hundred miles. Right glad was

I, like Gilpin’s horse, “at length to miss the lumber of the wheels,” the

boats, carts, specimens, and last but not least, Kater’s compasses. No

care had I now whether my single step was east or north-east, nor about

the length of my day’s journey, nor the hills or dales crossed, as to

their true situation, names, or number, or where I should encamp. To be

free from such cares seemed heaven itself, and I rode on without the

slightest thought about where I should pass the night, quite sure that

some friendly hut or house would receive me and afford snugger shelter

and better fare than I had seen for many a day.

(*Footnote. Remains of Peter Corcoran. Blackwood’s Magazine.)

APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY ON THE MURRUMBIDGEE.

We had arrived on the Murrumbidgee seventy-five miles below the point

where that river quitted the settled districts and ceased to form a

county boundary. I found the upper portion of this fine stream fully

occupied as cattle-stations, which indeed extended also, as I was

informed, much lower down the river; and such was the thoroughfare in

that direction that I found a tolerable cart road from one station to

another. I passed the night at the house of a stockman in charge of the

cattle of Mr. James Macarthur, and I was very comfortably lodged.

October 28.

With the Murrumbidgee still occasionally in view we pursued the road

which led towards Sydney. Each meadow was already covered with the lowing

herds for which it seemed to have been prepared; and the traces of man’s

industry were now obvious in fences, and in a substantial wooden house

and smoking chimney, usually built in the most inviting part of each

cattle run. All the animals looked fat and sufficiently proved the value

of the pasturage along this river. Steep and rugged ridges occasionally

approached its banks and, in following the beaten track, I this day

crossed acclivities much more difficult for the passage of

wheel-carriages than any we had traversed throughout those uncultivated

wastes, where even the pastoral age had not commenced.

The scenery at various points of the river seen this day was very

beautiful; its chief features consisting of noble sheets of water,

umbrageous woods, flowery meadows, enlivened by those objects so

essential to the harmony of landscape, cattle of every hue.

The gigantic and luxuriant growth of the yarra eucalyptus everywhere

produced fine effects; and one tree in particular pleased me so much that

I was tempted to draw it, although the shades of evening would scarcely

permit; but while thus engaged I sent my servant forward to look for some

hut or station that I might remain the longer to complete my drawing.

JUGION CREEK.

I arrived long after dark at a cattle-station occupied by a

superintendent of Mr. Henry O’Brian, near Jugion Creek on the right bank

of the Murrumbidgee, and there passed the night. Two considerable rivers

join this creek from the mountainous but fine country to the southward,

one being named the Coodradigbee, the other the Doomot. The higher

country there is granitic although, on both rivers, limestone also

abounds in which the corals seem to belong to Mr. Murchison’s Silurian

system. Favosites, Stromatopora concentrica, Heliopora pyriformis, and

stems of crinoidea are found loosely about the surface. There is also a

large rock of haematite under Mount Jellula.

BRUNONIA ABUNDANT.

October 29.

The road led us this day over some hilly country of a rather poor

description, but the beautiful flower Brunonia grew so abundantly that

the surface exhibited the unusual and delicate tint of ultramarine blue.

I was tempted once more to forsake the road in order to ascend a range

which it crossed in hopes of being able to see, from some lofty summit

thereof, points of the country I had left, and thus to connect them by

means of my pocket sextant with any visible points I might recognise of

my former trigonometrical survey. It was not however in my power to do

this satisfactorily, not having been able to distinguish any of the

latter.

YASS PLAINS.

Towards evening I drew near Yass Plains and was not a little struck with

their insignificance as compared with those of the south. A township had

been marked out here, and the comfortable establishments of various

wealthy colonists evinced, by their preference of these plains, that they

considered them the best part of a very extensive district.

THE GAP, AN INN.

Mr. Cornelius O’Brien had invited me to his house and afterwards

furnished me with a supply of provisions for my party; but I carried my

own despatches, and a much shorter route led to the left by which I could

divide the way better in continuing my ride to the Gap, a small inn where

I arrived at a very late hour, the road having been soft, uneven, and

wholly through a dreary wood.

The noise and bustle of the house was quite refreshing to one who had

dwelt so long in deserts, although it seemed to promise little

accommodation, for there had been races in the neighbourhood and horses

lay about the yard. Nevertheless the waiter and his wife cleared for my

accommodation a room which had been full of noisy people, and my horses

were soon lodged snugly in the stable. There indeed I perceived more room

than the house afforded, for while the guests were regaling within their

horses were allowed to lay about to starve outside, as if so many gypsies

had been about the place; no uncommon circumstance in Australia.

October 30.

In the course of my ride this morning I recognised the poor scrubby land

about the southern boundary of the county of Argyle, which I had surveyed

in 1828. The wood on it is rather open, consisting of a stunted species

of eucalyptus, the grass, apparently a hard species of poa, affording but

little nourishment. Sandstone and quartz are the predominant rocks

although some of the most remarkable hills consist of trap.

BREDALBANE PLAINS.

Passing at length through a gap in a low ridge of granular quartz, we

entered upon Bredalbane plains, consisting of three open flats of grassy

land circumscribed by hills of little apparent height, and extending

about twelve miles in the direction of this road, their average width

being about two miles. Deringullen ponds arise in the most southern

plain, and are among the most eastern heads of the Lachlan. The plains

are situated on the high dividing ground or water shed between the

streams falling eastward and westward, and had probably once been lagoons

of the same character as those which still distinguish other portions of

this dividing ground.

LAKE GEORGE.

The most remarkable of these is Lake George, about fourteen miles further

to the south, and which in 1828 was a sheet of water seventeen miles in

length and seven in breadth. There is no outlet for the waters of this

lake although it receives no less than four mountain streams from the

hills north of it, namely Turallo creek, whose highest source is fourteen

miles from the lake, Butmaro creek which arises in a mountain sixteen

miles from it, Taylor’s creek from the range on the east, six miles

distant, and Kenny’s creek from hills five miles distant. The southern

shore of this lake presents one continuous low ridge, separating its

waters from the head of the Yass river which would otherwise receive

them. The water was slightly brackish in 1828 but quite fit for use, and

the lake was then surrounded by dead trees of the eucalyptus measuring

about two feet in diameter, which also extended into it until wholly

covered by the water. In that wide expanse we could find no fish, and an

old native female said she remembered when the whole was a forest, a

statement supported pro tanto by the dead trees in its bed as well as by

the whole of the basin being in October 1836 a grassy meadow not unlike

the plains of Bredalbane.

It would be well worth the attention of a man of leisure to ascertain the

lowest part in the country around Lake George, at which its waters, on

reaching their maximum height, would overflow from its basin.

Several lagoons, apparently the remains of more extensive waters, occur

between Lake George and Bredalbane plains in the line of watershed as

already observed. These are named Tarrago, Mutmutbilly, and Wallagorong,

the latter being apparently a residuum of the lake which probably once

covered the three plains of Bredalbane.

SOIL AND ROCKS.

The quality of the soil now found in the patches of grassy land on the

margins of these lakes and lagoons depends on the nature of the high

ground nearest to them. The hills to the eastward of Lake George are

chiefly granitic. Ondyong point on its northern shore consists of

sandstone resembling that of the coal-measures; and the rock forming the

range above the western shores is of the same quality. The hills at the

source of Kenny’s creek consist of trap, of which rock there is also a

remarkable hill on the southern side of Bredalbane plains; and these

plains are bounded on the north by a ridge of syenite, which here forms

the actual division between the sources of the rivers Lachlan and

Wollondilly.

The water in the smaller lagoons westward of Lake George is perfectly

sweet, and the pasturage on the plains adjacent being in general very

good, the land is occupied by several extensive grazing establishments.

THE WOLLONDILLY.

On entering the valley of the river Wollondilly which waters Goulburn

plains, I was surprised to see its waters extremely low and not even

flowing. The poor appearance of the woods also struck me, judging by

comparison with the land in the south; and although the scantiness of

grass, also observable, might be attributed to the great number of sheep

and cattle fed there, I was not the less sensible of the more parched

aspect of the country generally.

GOULBURN PLAINS.

Goulburn Plains consist of open downs affording excellent pasturage for

sheep and extending twenty miles southward from the township, their

breadth being about ten.

A GARDEN.

I reached at twilight the house of a worthy friend, Captain Rossi, who

received me with great kindness and hospitality. The substantial

improvements which he had effected on his farm since my last visit to

that part of the colony evinced his skill and industry as a colonist;

while an extensive garden and many tasteful arrangements for domestic

comfort marked the residence of a gentleman. Under that hospitable roof I

exchanged the narrative of my wanderings for the accumulated news of

seven months which, with my friend’s good cheer, rendered his invitation

to rest my horses for one day quite irresistible.

October 31.

A walk in the garden; a visit to the shearing shed; the news of colonial

affairs in general; fat pullets cooked a la gastronome and some good

wine; had each in its turn rare charms for me.

PUBLIC WORKS.

I had arrived in a country which I had myself surveyed; and the roads and

towns in progress were the first fruits of these labours. I had marked

out in 1830 the road now before me, which I then considered the most

important in New South Wales as leading to the more temperate south, and

I had now completed it as a line of communication between Sydney and the

southern coasts. This important public work on which I had bestowed the

greatest pains by surveying the whole country between the Wollondilly and

Shoalhaven rivers, had been nevertheless retarded nearly two years on the

representations of some of the settlers, so that the part most essential

to be opened continued still in a half finished state.*

(*Footnote. A petition had been got up in favour of another line said to

be more direct; and it is a remarkable fact that numerous signatures were

obtained even to such a petition, although it was found at last that the

line laid down after a careful survey was not only twelve chains shorter

than the other proposed but also avoided the steepest hills.)

SHOALHAVEN RIVER.

The Shoalhaven river flows in a ravine about 1500 feet below the common

level of the country between it and the Wollondilly. Precipices

consisting at one part of granite and at another of limestone give a

peculiar grandeur to the scenery of the Shoalhaven river.

LIMESTONE CAVERNS THERE.

The limestone is of a dark grey colour and contains very imperfect

fragments of shells. We find among the features on these lofty riverbanks

many remarkable hollows not unaptly termed hoppers by the country people,

from the water sinking into them as grain subsides in the hopper of a

mill. As each of these hollows terminates in a crevice leading to a

cavern in the limestone below, I descended into one in 1828 and

penetrated without difficulty to a considerable depth over slimy rocks,

but was forced to return because our candles were nearly exhausted. A

current of air met us as we descended and it might have come from some

crevice probably near the bed of the river. That water sometimes flowed

into these caverns was evident from pieces of decayed trees which had

been carried downwards by it to a considerable depth. I looked in vain

there for fossil bones, but I found projecting from the side of the

cavern at the lowest part I reached a very perfect specimen of coral of

the genus favosites.

COUNTY OF ST. VINCENT.

The country to the eastward of the Shoalhaven river, that is to say

between it and the sea-coast, is very wild and mountainous. The higher

part including Currocbilly and the Pigeon house (summits) consists of

sandstone passing from a fine to a coarse grain, occasionally containing

pebbles of quartz, and in some of the varieties numerous specks of

decomposed felspar. The lower parts of the same country, according to the

rocks seen in Yalwal creek, consist of granite, basalt, and compact

felspar. Nearer the coast a friable whitish sandstone affords but a poor

soil, except where the partial occurrence of decomposed laminated felspar

and gneiss produced one somewhat better. This country comprises the

county of St. Vincent, bounded on one side by the Shoalhaven river and on

the other by the sea-coast. The southern portion of that county affords

the greatest quantity of soil available either for cultivation or

pasture; although around Bateman Bay, which is its limit on the south,

much good land cannot be expected as Snapper Island at the entrance

consists of grey compact quartz only, with white veins of crystalline

quartz.

UPPER SHOALHAVEN.

The country on the upper part of the Shoalhaven river comprises much good

land. The river flows there nearly on a level with the surface and

resembles an English stream. The temperature at the elevation of about

2000 feet above the sea is so low even in summer that potatoes and

gooseberries, for both of which the climate of Sydney is too hot, grow

luxuriantly. A rich field for geological research will probably be found

in that neighbourhood.

CARWARY.

In a hasty ride which I took as far as Carwary in 1832, I was conducted

by my friend Mr. Ryrie to a remarkable cavern under white marble where I

found trap; a vein of ironstone of a fused appearance; a quartzose

ferruginous conglomerate; a calcareous tuff containing fragments of these

rocks; and specular iron ore in abundance near the same spot.

But still further southward and on the range separating the country at

the head of the Shoalhaven river from the ravines on the coast, I was

shown an antre vast which, for aught I know, may involve in its recesses

more of the wild and wonderful than any of the deserts idle which I have

since explored.

VAST SUBSIDENCE ON A MOUNTAIN THERE.

A part of the surface of that elevated country had subsided, carrying

trees along with it to the depth of about 400 yards, and left a yawning

opening about 300 yards wide resembling a gigantic quarry, at the bottom

of which the sunken trees continued to grow. In the eastern side of the

bottom of this subsidence a large opening extended under the rock and

seemed to lead to a subterraneous cavity of great dimensions.

GOULBURN TOWNSHIP.

November 1.

Taking leave of my kind host at an early hour, I continued my ride,

passing through the new township in which, although but few years had

elapsed since I had sketched its streets on paper, a number of houses had

already been built. The Mulwary Ponds scarcely afford sufficient water of

the supply of a large population there; but at the junction of this

channel with the Wollondilly there is a deep reach not likely to be ever

exhausted.

GREAT ROAD.

The road marked out between this township and Sydney led over a country

shut up, as already stated, between the Wollondilly and the Shoalhaven

rivers. These streams are distant from each other at the narrowest part

of the intervening surface about ten miles; and as each is bordered by

deep ravines the middle portion of the country between them is naturally

the most level, and this happens to be precisely in the direction most

desirable for a general line of communication between Sydney and the most

valuable parts of the colony to the southward.

TOWRANG HILL.

At a few miles from Goulburn the road passes by the foot of Towrang, a

hill whose summit I had formerly cleared of timber, leaving only one

tree. I thus obtained an uninterrupted view of the distant horizon, and

found the hill very useful afterwards in extending our survey from

Jellore into the higher country around Lake George. This hill consists

chiefly of quartz rock. At its base the new line leaves the original cart

track which here crossed the Wollondilly twice. I now found an

intermediate road in use between the old track and my half-formed road

which was still inaccessible at this point for want of a small bridge

over Towrang Creek.

THE WOLLONDILLY.

The Wollondilly pursues its course to the left, passing under the

southern extremity of Cockbundoon range, which extends about thirty miles

in a straight line from north to south, and consists of sandstone dipping

westward. Near the Wollondilly and a few miles from Towrang a quarry of

crystalline variegated marble has been recently wrought to a considerable

extent, and chimney-pieces, tables, etc. now ornament most good houses at

Sydney. This rock occurs in blocks over greenstone, and has hitherto been

found only in that spot.

WILD COUNTRY THROUGH WHICH IT FLOWS.

The channel of the Wollondilly continues open and accessible for a few

miles lower down than this, but after it is joined by the Uringalla near

Arthursleigh it sinks immediately into a deep ravine and is no longer

accessible as above, the country to the westward of it being exceedingly

wild and broken. The scene it presented when I stood on the pic of

Jellore in 1828 and commenced a general survey of this colony was of the

most discouraging description.* A flat horizon to a surface cracked and

hollowed out into the wildest ravines, deep and inaccessible; their

sides, consisting of perpendicular rocky cliffs, afforded but little

reason to suppose that it could be surveyed and divided as proposed into

counties, hundreds, and parishes; and still less was it likely ever to be

inhabited, even if such a work could be accomplished. Nevertheless it was

necessary in the performance of my duties that these rivers should be

traced, and where the surveyor pronounced them inaccessible to the chain,

I clambered over rocks and measured from cliff to cliff with the pocket

sextant. Thus had I wandered on foot by the murmuring Wollondilly,

sometimes passing the night in its deep dark bed with no other companions

than a robber and a savage. I could now look back with some satisfaction

on these labours in that barren field. I had encompassed those wild

recesses; the desired division of the rocky wastes they enclosed had

really been made; and if no other practical benefit was derived we had at

least been enabled to open ways across them to better regions beyond.

(*Footnote. My predecessor in office had declared the operation to be

impracticable in such a country; but to this general survey I was pledged

on accepting my appointment in London. Two other commissioners for the

division of the territory were each receiving a guinea a day, but yet

could do nothing until this survey was accomplished; and I therefore set

about the work with the resolution necessary for the performance of what

was deemed almost impossible. Universal wood, impassable ravines, a total

absence of artificial objects, and the consequent necessity for clearing

summits as stations for the theodolite were great impediments; but I made

the most of each station when it had once been cleared by taking an exact

panoramic view with the theodolite of the nameless features it commanded.

The accompanying facsimile of a page of my field book includes the view

between north and north-west, taken for the above purpose from the summit

of Jellore, and extends over the ravines of the Nattai to the crest of

the Blue Mountains. Plate 38.)

THE NATTAI. MOYENGULLY.

In the numerous ravines surrounding Jellore the little river Nattai has

its sources, and this wild region is the haunt and secure retreat of the

Nattai tribe whose chief, Moyengully, was one of my earliest aboriginal

friends. (See Plate 39.)

Marulan, the highest summit eastward of Jellore, consists of ferruginous

sandstone, but in the country to the northward we find syenite and

trap-rock. Of the latter, Nattary, a small hill north-east from Towrang

and distant about four miles from it, is perhaps the most remarkable. The

elevation of the country there is considerable (being about one thousand

five hundred feet above the sea on the level part) and, except near the

Shoalhaven and Wollondilly rivers, not much broken into ravines. It

contains not only fine pasture land but also much good wheat land,

especially towards the side of the Shoalhaven river.

ARRIVE AT THE LINE OF GREAT ROAD. CONVICT WORKMEN.

At fourteen miles from Goulburn I came upon that part of my new line of

great road where the works had not been impeded by those for whose

benefit the road was intended;* and here I found that the iron-gangs had

done some good service. I had now the satisfaction of travelling along a

road every turn of which I had studied previous to marking it out after a

most careful survey of the whole country.

(*Footnote. One of the most palpable consequences of the interruption my

plan experienced was that it interfered with the prospects of an

innkeeper whose inn had already been half built of brick in anticipation

of the opening of the new line.)

BERRIMA BRIDGE.

On Crawford’s creek I found that a bridge with stone buttresses had been

nearly completed. I had endeavoured to introduce permanent bridges of

stonework into this colony instead of those of wood, which were very

liable to be burnt and frequently required repair. We had among the

prisoners some tolerable stonecutters and setters but, until I had the

good fortune to find among the emigrants a person practically acquainted

with the construction of arches, their labours had never been productive

of much benefit to the public. The governor had readily complied with my

recommendation to appoint Mr. Lennox superintendent of such works; and on

entering the township of Berrima this evening I had the satisfaction at

length of crossing at least one bridge worthy of a British colony.

BERRIMA.

This town is situated on the little river Wingecarrabee, and was planned

by me some years before when marking out the general line of road. The

eligibility of the situation consists chiefly in the abundance and purity

of the water, and of materials for building with the vicinity of a small

agricultural population. I found here, on my return now, Mr. Lambie of

the road branch of my department, under whose immediate superintendence

the bridge had been erected. The walls of a gaol and courthouse were also

rising, and a site was ready for the church.

TRAP RANGE.

November 2.

A remarkable range consisting chiefly of trap-rock traverses the whole

country between the Wollondilly and the sea in a south-east direction

extending from Bullio to Kiama. The highest part is known as the

Mittagong range and, in laying down the new line of road, it was an

object of importance to avoid this range. Bowral, the highest part,

consists of quartz or very hard sandstone.

SANDSTONE COUNTRY.

On leaving Berrima the road traverses several low ridges of trap-rock and

then turns to the south-east in order to avoid the ravines of the Nattai;

for we again find here that ferruginous sandstone which desolates so

large a portion of New South Wales and, to all appearance, New Holland,

presenting in the interior desert plains of red sand, and on the eastern

side of the dividing range, a world of stone quarries and sterility. It

is only where trap or granite or limestone occur that the soil is worth

possessing, and to this extent every settler is under the necessity of

becoming a geologist; he must also be a geographer, that he may find

water and not lose himself in the bush; and it must indeed be admitted

that the intelligence of the native youth in all such matters is little

inferior to that of the aborigines.

The barren sandstone country is separated from the seashore by a lofty

range of trap-rock connected with that of Mittagong, and we accordingly

find an earthly paradise between that range and the seashore. The

Illawarra is a region in which the rich soil is buried under matted

creepers, tree-ferns and the luxuriant shade of a tropical vegetation

nourished both by streams from the lofty range and the moist breezes of

the sea. There a promising and extensive field for man’s industry lies

still uncultivated, but when the roads now partially in progress shall

have connected it with the rest of the colony it must become one of the

most certain sources of agricultural produce in New South Wales.

THE ILLAWARRA.

The sandstone on the interior side extends to the summit of the trap

range and its numerous ravines occasion the difficulties which have

hitherto excluded wheel-carriages from access to the Illawarra.

LUPTON’S INN.

To cross a country so excavated is impossible except in certain

directions, but the best lines these fastnesses admit of have been

ascertained and marked out in connection with that for the great southern

road, which ought to leave the present line at Lupton’s Inn. I consider

this the most important public work still necessary to complete the

system of great roads planned by me in New South Wales; but I have not

had means at my disposal hitherto for carrying into effect this portion

of the general plan.

From Lupton’s Inn Sydney bore north-east, yet I was obliged to turn with

the present road towards the north-west and to travel eleven miles over

unfavourable ground in a direction to the westward of north.

Having been engaged this day in examining the bridges and the work done

along the whole line, Mr. Lambie accompanying me, I did not reach the

house of my friend Macalister at Clifton until it was rather late, but at

any hour I could be sure of a hearty welcome.

THE RAZORBACK.

November 3.

The Razorback range is a very remarkable feature in this part of the

country. It is isolated, extending about eight miles in a general

direction between west-north-west and east-south-east, being very level

on some parts of the summit, and so very narrow in others, while the

sides are also so steep, that the name it has obtained is descriptive

enough.

FORD OF THE NEPEAN. CAMPBELLTOWN.

Around this trap-range lies the fertile district of the Cowpastures,

watered by the Nepean river. On proceeding along the road towards

Campbelltown we cross this river by a ford which has been paved with a

causeway, and we thus enter the county of Cumberland. Here trap-rock

still predominates, and the soil is good and appears well cultivated, but

there is a saltness in the surface water which renders it at some seasons

unfit for use. The line of great road as planned by me would pass by this

township (now containing 400 inhabitants) and the town might then

probably increase by extending towards George’s river, a stream which

would afford a permanent supply of good water.

LIVERPOOL. LANSDOWNE BRIDGE.

Passing through Liverpool, which has a population of 600 inhabitants and

is situated on the left bank of George’s river, I arrived at three miles

beyond that town at Lansdowne bridge, where the largest arch hitherto

erected in Australia had been recently built by Mr. Lennox. The necessity

for a permanent bridge over Prospect Creek arose from the failure of

several wooden structures, to the great inconvenience of the public, this

being really a creek rising and falling with the tide. The obstacle, and

the steepness of the left bank, which was considerable, have been

triumphantly surmounted by a noble arch of 110 feet span which carries

the road at a very slight inclination to the level of the opposite bank.

The bridge is wholly the work of men in irons who must have been fed, and

must consequently have cost the public just as much if they had done

nothing all the while; and it may be held up as a fair specimen of the

great advantage of convict labour in such a country when applied to

public works. The creek is navigable to this point and, stone being

abundant and of good quality on the opposite side of George’s river, one

gang was advantageously employed in the quarry there while another was

building the bridge. Mr. Lennox ably seconded my views in carrying these

arrangements into effect. He contrived the cranes, superintended the

stone cutting, and even taught the workmen; planned and erected the

centres for the arches and finally completed the structure itself which

had been opened to the public on the 26th of January.

Before venturing on so large a work I had employed Mr. Lennox on a

smaller bridge in the new pass in the ascent to the Blue Mountains, and

the manner in which he completed that work was such as to justify the

confidence with which I suggested to the government this larger

undertaking.

ARRIVE AT SYDNEY.

At length I arrived at Sydney and had the happiness on terminating this

long journey to find that all the members of my family were well,

although they had been much alarmed by reports of my death and the

destruction of my party by the savage natives of the interior.

As we proceeded the broad swampy bed of this river or morass appeared on

our right for a mile, the country being still covered by an open forest

of box, having also grass enough upon it. At eight miles we approached

some low hills of clay-slate, and I ascended one to the southward of our

route from which I recognised a sufficient number of previously observed

points to enable me to determine its relative position and theirs. On

this hill I found the beautiful Brownonia which we had seen before only

on Macquarie range beside the Lachlan. We here also met with the rare

Spadostylis cunninghamii, whose heart-shaped glaucous leaves so much

reminded us of the European euphorbias that it would have been mistaken

for one of them if it had not been for its shrubby habit and bright

yellow pea flowers.

PASS THROUGH FUTTER’S RANGE.

The country crossed beyond this hill was first undulating then hilly, and

at length became so much so that it was necessary to pick a way for the

carts with much caution. Nevertheless we at length succeeded in crossing

this range also at its lowest part where the hill to the northward of it,

already mentioned as the end of a range, bore nearly north. On reaching

the head of this pass the prospect before us, after winding through such

a labyrinth of hills, was agreeable enough. One fertile hollow led to an

open level country which appeared to be bounded at a great distance by

mountains; and I concluded that I should find in this extensive valley

the rivers King and Ovens. Keeping along the verdant flat (which was

watered by a good chain of ponds) we encamped about a mile and a half

beyond the pass, and I then named that feature above it Futter’s range

after a successful and public-spirited colonist of New South Wales.

IMPEDED BY A SWAMP AMONG REEDS.

October 15.

We had not proceeded more than half a mile in the general direction I

proposed for our route when a reedy swamp compelled me to turn northward

and, after travelling in that direction about a mile and a half, we found

the swamp on our right had produced a small stream running nearly on a

level with the plain. Its banks were soft and boggy, and beyond it we saw

through the trees extensive tracts covered with reeds. I was soon

compelled by the rivulet to deviate from my intended route even to the

westward of north until, at 10 1/2 miles, on meeting with a chain of

ponds falling to the eastward, I turned north-east, which bearing, at

less than a mile forward, again brought us upon the stream running from

the swamp but which was here flowing between firm banks and forming ponds

of some magnitude. We forded it with difficulty by crossing at two

points, that we might not break too much the soft earth over which it

flowed by the passage of all in one place.

JUNCTION OF THE RIVERS OVENS AND KING.

At two miles further on we met with another stream of less magnitude

flowing also to the north-west and at about a mile beyond it we reached

the bank of the Ovens, fortunately just below the junction of a rather

smaller stream which I took to be King’s river.

The two united formed a noble stream finely breaking up the dead levels

of the surrounding plains which indeed, where we approached it, formed

its highest bank and were there twenty-three feet above the water.

No time was lost in launching our boat, and we effected a passage and

encamped on the opposite bank before sunset, having driven all the cattle

and horses safely across also, although with considerable difficulty from

the steepness of the banks and softness of the soil at the water’s edge

on the side where they got to land.

October 16.

This morning the river had fallen three inches; its temperature was 59

degrees (of Fahrenheit) the current flowing at the rate of 1 1/4 miles

per hour; the mean depth two fathoms; and the width, where measured, 47

yards; the breadth of the river King at the junction being nearly as

much. The right bank to the distance of a mile and a half from the river

was low and alluvial, and intersected by narrow watercourses and lagoons.

On the alluvial flat where we crossed it stood a small isolated hill,

between which and the higher ground still farther back water was running,

apparently from a swamp, but as soon as we crossed this we reached firm

ground and travelled on an open forest plain for nearly eight miles.

ASCEND GRANITIC RANGES.

We then came upon a hill of granite, and from its summit I perceived that

we were already on the northern extremities of the high ranges we had

seen from the westward. After travelling some miles along the summits of

ridges in order to reach their connection with another range more to the

northward, I ascertained, on crossing the highest part of a second ridge,

that its northern slopes were very steep and rocky. A hill of

considerable height lay before us and therefore, as soon as I had

selected a spot for our camp in a little intervening valley, I hastened

to it, certainly in doubt how we should extricate the carts from the

rocky fastnesses before us. That summit afforded a commanding view of the

country beyond the granitic range, and I perceived that it was low to a

considerable distance northward, while the ranges beyond that extensive

basin seemed of no great elevation to the westward or north-west, and all

terminated on the level interior country where the horizon was broken by

only one remarkable hill which, as I afterwards learnt, was named Dingee.

In that direction I saw also open plains along which I thought I could

trace the line of the Ovens. In the lower country before me I hoped to

find the Murray, according to the map of Messrs. Hovell and Hume, which

in the two rivers we had recently passed seemed wonderfully correct.

LOFTY MASS NAMED MOUNT ABERDEEN.

I again recognised in the south and south-east some of the snowy peaks

formerly noticed, and I named the most lofty mass Mount Aberdeen. Beyond

what I considered to be the course or bed of the Murray there appeared

some steep ranges, to avoid which I chose a course more to the northward

than I should otherwise have pursued in my way towards Yass. Before I

returned to the camp I sought and succeeded in finding and marking out, a

line of route by which the carts could be conducted across these rocky

ranges and down to the lower country beyond them. On that range we found

a handsome blue flower which I had previously seen growing abundantly on

Bowral range near Mittagong within the present colony. We found in these

valleys abundance of good grass.

October 17.

We descended from the higher range without difficulty, and then crossed

several low ridges of quartz and clay-slate extending westward; some

flats of good land lay between these ridges and, at about 6 miles, we met

with a creek or chain of ponds. At 13 1/2 miles we entered a rich plain

terminating northward at a low but remarkable hill which I had observed

from the mountains.

REACH THE MURRAY.

The grass grew luxuriantly on this plain and after crossing and passing

through the forest beyond it I recognised with satisfaction the lofty

yarra trees and the low verdant alluvial flats of the Murray. No one

could have mistaken this grand feature; for the vast extent of verdant

margin with lofty trees and still lakes could belong to no other

Australian river we knew of. On descending the berg or outer bank which

was sloping and grassy, I found the still lagoons so numerous that I

could not, without very great difficulty and after a ride of nearly an

hour, obtain a sight of the flowing river. I found it at length running

bank-high and still of greater width than any other known Australian

river.

THE RIVER VERY DIFFICULT OF ACCESS.

The water was then just beginning to pour over its borders into the

alluvial margins by which I had approached it; and on the opposite side

the border consisted of a reedy swamp, evidently impassable and unfit for

a landing-place. In no direction could I find access for our carts to the

running stream. Deep and long winding reaches of still water shut me out,

either from the high berg or bank at one part, or from the flowing stream

at another. Returning from the river in a different direction I found, in

a situation where I had nearly gained as I imagined the high bank after

riding a mile, that a deep reach still separated me from that high bank

which I then saw was beyond it, so that in order to return to the carts I

was obliged to retrace my steps for several miles. Having got round at

length I ascended the hill before mentioned for the purpose of taking

some angles, and I found that it consisted of granite, the component

parts being white quartz and felspar and black mica. I named this

remarkable feature, probably the lowest hill of granite on the Murray,

Mount Ochtertyre. I had sufficient daylight left to conduct the party

over part of this hill to a portion of the riverbank accessible then to

carts by fording only one lagoon. The velocity of the Murray at the spot

where we could thus approach its border exceeded that of any other river

we had previously crossed, being at the rate of 2 1/2 miles per hour.

October 18.

At daylight this morning the boat was sent across with Burnett and Piper,

who landed to examine the ground within the reeds on that bank; and they

ascertained it was so intersected by various deep lagoons that we could

no longer hope to pass that way. I next went down the river in the boat

and found at about a mile and a half below our camp a place where I

thought we might effect a passage. This point was under a steep bank of

red earth on the opposite shore where the river seemed to be encroaching.

A CARRIAGE TRACK DISCOVERED.

We landed and endeavoured to ascertain by looking for cattle marks

whether any stations were near; and having heard that the flocks of the

settlers already extended to the Murray we proceeded northward, eager to

discover the tracks of civilised men. The wheels of a gig drawn by one

horse and accompanied by others were traced by Piper, but the impressions

were several months old. We walked as far as a spacious plain at some

distance from the river without seeing any more recent tracks; and we

were at length convinced that no station extended then in the immediate

neighbourhood. The left bank between the spot where our camp then was and

the crossing-place which I had selected was low though apparently firm;

but on landing and returning along it I met with several narrow channels

into which water was then flowing from the river and which afterwards

cost us considerable trouble to cross with our carts.

PASSAGE OF THE RIVER.

That part of the bank which I had selected for driving the cattle into

the river, that they might swim over, was soft and boggy, but in the

opposite shore where they were to go out we cut in the firm clay at the

base of the red cliff before mentioned a landing-place and path with

picks and spades, so that the cattle on reaching that side could pass

along the foot of the cliff to a lower part of the bank adjacent. After

all other obstacles had been surmounted and the best portion of the day

had been spent in conducting the party to within a short distance of this

place my horse unexpectedly sunk in what had appeared to be firm ground.

CATTLE.

This impediment the party however overcame by cutting down some brush and

small trees, and opening a lane through which we at length contrived to

bring the cattle forward to the bank. It was near sunset before they

could be driven into the water; yet we finally succeeded in forcing the

whole to swim to the other side that evening with the exception of one

bullock which, having got bogged, was smothered in the mud on the first

rush of the others into the water. The landing of some of these animals

on the opposite bank was attended with difficulty for they did not all

make for the proper place, some turning towards the bank they had left

and endeavouring to re-ascend it much lower down where the banks were

either too soft or inaccessible: others swimming straight down the stream

turned to parts of the opposite bank which they could not climb. With

these last I was prepared to contend, having taken my station in the boat

to watch such contingencies; and by dragging the foremost of those who

had swum back across the river by the horns, and those which had arrived

at the wrong place out with ropes; we succeeded at length in forcing all

that had floated too far down to land on the right bank. But the greater

number had got out higher up the river upon some fallen portions of the

red cliff instead of taking the path we had cut under it; and the footing

there was so slight that, as they crowded on each other, groups fell,

from time to time, back into the river. The last part of the operation

was therefore to row towards these, when Woods, who was in the boat, soon

induced one of the bullocks well-known to him to take the path, upon

which all the rest followed until they reached the grassy flat where

others more fortunate than themselves were already feeding. At the close

of this laborious day I encamped on the right bank, leaving still on the

other side however a small party in charge of the horses and carts. The

day was extremely hot and the full and flowing river gave an unusual

appearance of life and motion to the desert whose wearisome stillness was

so unvarying elsewhere. Serpents were numerous and some were seen of a

species apparently peculiar to this river. Here they invariably took to

it, and one beautiful reptile in particular, being of a golden colour

with red streaks, sprang from under my horse’s feet and rode upon the

strong current of the boiling stream, keeping abreast of us and holding

his head erect, as if in defiance and without once attempting to make

off, until he died in his glory by a shot from Roach.

HORSES.

October 19.

The first half of this day was required for the passage of the horses one

by one; and for taking the carts across. We left the boat carriage on the

left bank and sunk the boat in a deep lagoon on the right bank, to remain

there until the party should return to the spot with a stock of

provisions for Mr. Stapylton. Here the last mountain barometer, which had

been carried in excellent order throughout the journey, lost mercury so

copiously that I could not hope to use it any more, time being then too

valuable to admit of delay; and thus my list of observations terminated

on the Murray. I supposed that the intense heat of the sun to which the

instrument had been exposed when tied to a tree for some hours after the

tents had been struck had contracted the leathern bag so much as to

loosen it from the edges of the cylinder, and thus formed openings

through which the mercury had escaped. The breadth of the Murray was 80

yards at the place where we crossed it and the mean depth was 3 1/2

fathoms. At length I saw with great satisfaction my party on the right

bank of this great river; having now no other stream to cross until we

reached the Murrumbidgee where we might consider ourselves at home.

PARTY RETURNING TO MEET MR. STAPYLTON.

Just at this time Archibald McKane, a carpenter, came forward and

proposed to return with any two of the men and the native Tommy to meet

the party coming after us upon the Goulburn; and to construct there such

rafts of casks and other gear as might enable Mr. Stapylton to cross that

river and the Ovens and so come forward to the Murray; an arrangement

which would render it unnecessary for me to send back any cattle or the

boat as intended. I was much pleased with the proposal of McKane and,

Tommy Came-last being also willing to return, I appointed John Douglas, a

sailor and most handy man, and Charles King, a man who feared nothing, to

accompany McKane. Full rations were issued to the four and, having given

them a letter for Mr. Stapylton, the little party returned towards the

houseless wilds, when we left the Murray to continue our journey

homewards. Although we did not set off before one o’clock we this day

travelled fourteen miles, but did not encamp till long after sunset. The

scarcity of water compelled us to travel thus far, for none had been seen

except one small muddy pool until I reached the valley where we encamped,

and even there we found little more than enough for ourselves and cattle.

October 20.

After travelling five miles over tolerable land we crossed a range of

very fine-grained granite consisting of felspar, quartz, and small

particles of mica and having a very crystalline aspect. This range was a

branch from a higher mass on our right. At seven miles we crossed the

shoulder of a hill whence I intersected others to the right. This also

consisted of fine-grained granite, similar to that of the other hill, but

it was not so red and had fewer spangles of mica.

A CREEK TERMINATING IN A SWAMP.

At eight miles we came to a chain of deep ponds which seemed a tributary

to some greater water, as indicated by the yarra trees and flats before

us, apparently covered with verdure. On advancing into these flats

however we found them soft and swampy, being so very wet and so covered

with dead trees that we were obliged to retrace our steps and turn

eastward, thus crossing to a higher bank altogether east of the chain of

ponds; and along this we proceeded without seeing any further continuance

of the deep serpentine channel, full of water, which appeared to

terminate there. That woody swamp seemed very extensive and was the only

instance met with in the course of our travels of the termination of a

stream in a swamp, although I understood subsequently that this was the

fate of various minor brooks descending towards that part of the interior

plains. We found there a curious black-headed grass which proved to be of

the carex genus. At 11 1/2 miles we arrived at a running stream, its

course being northward; and at 15 1/2 miles we reached a very fine little

rivulet flowing between grassy banks twenty-five feet high, the soil

consisting of a red earth similar to that on the interior plains and the

banks of the Murray.

MOUNT TRAFALGAR. RUGGED COUNTRY STILL BEFORE US.

October 21.

At five miles we were abreast of a pointed hill which I ascended and

named Mount Trafalgar in honour of that memorable day. From it I obtained

a view of the country before us, and I perceived in the direction of our

intended route some high cone-shaped hills. A ridge extended from them to

the westward, but its height seemed gradually to diminish in that

direction, although it presented two very abrupt and remarkable hills

whose steepest side being towards the north overlooked as I supposed the

spacious basin of the Murrumbidgee. One solitary mount appeared much

farther to the westward and was also steep-sided towards the north. On

descending I shaped my course towards the hollow where the ridge could be

most easily crossed. At 8 3/4 miles we met with some good ponds of water

and beyond them the winding channel of a smaller watercourse falling

southward from the range already mentioned. After crossing and recrossing

this channel and its various branches we at length gained the crest of

the range, and I directed the party to halt while I hastened to a conical

summit on the left, apparently the highest and most pointed of those

previously observed. It consisted of syenite and from it I obtained a

very extensive view to the northward, but yet could not see any

favourable opening in the direction in which I wished to reach the

Murrumbidgee: on the contrary as we reduced our distance from home the

obstacles to our reaching it seemed to increase.

PROVISIONS NEARLY EXHAUSTED.

Our provisions had been counted out to a day, and any delay beyond the

time required to cross that country at our usual rate of travelling might

have been attended with great inconvenience. Mr. Stapylton’s party, then

so far behind, were depending upon us for supplies; while a labyrinth of

mountains, entirely without roads or inhabitants, was to be crossed in a

limited time with carts before any such supplies could be obtained and

sent back. Some high and distant mountains appeared to the eastward, and

in the west I intersected the hills I had previously seen which were now

much nearer to us. On returning from the hill to the party we descended

from the range into some flats of good open land where a solitary

kangaroo became an object of intense interest now that our provisions

were exhausted. The week was out for which the last of our stock had been

issued in very small rations; and although most of the men had

endeavoured to make this very reduced week’s allowance to last them nine

days no mutton remained, nor could it well have been preserved during

such hot weather. This kangaroo would have been therefore a most welcome

addition to our store; but we had no dogs and I was so anxious as to

venture a shot at too great a distance and to our great disappointment it

escaped. We finally encamped in a valley which fell to the right or

eastward, near some good ponds, and after performing a journey of upwards

of 15 miles. I found near the hill I first ascended in the morning a new

kind of grass with large seeds.*

(*Footnote. Danthonia eriantha, Lindley manuscripts; panicula

subcoarctata lanceolata, spiculis sub-4-floris gluma laevi multo

brevioribus, palea exteriori laevigata basi apiceque villosissima,

aristis lateralibus subulatis debilibus intermedia brevioribus, foliis

setaceis vaginisque patentim pilosis, collo barbato.)

October 22.

Soon after we set out this morning we approached a range of barren hills

of clay-slate on which grew the grass tree (xanthorrhoea) and stunted

eucalypti. On ascending this range I perceived before me a deep ravine,

and beyond it hills less promising than even these which were

sufficiently repulsive to travellers with wheel-carriages. Turning

therefore from that hopeless prospect towards the eastward, we crossed

the head of a valley falling to the right, and after a somewhat tortuous

course we gained the highest part of a range beyond it, from which a

grassy vale descended on the opposite side towards the north-east. This

vale turned to the left after we had followed it 2 1/4 miles and we next

crossed a ridge of quartz rock.

CATTLE TRACKS FOUND.

Beyond the ridge the natives found some old cattle tracks and this

intelligence very much pleased and encouraged the men.

BURNETT’S RIVULET.

At two miles farther on we came upon a little rivulet flowing to the

westward through a good grassy valley, and it was joined about the place

where we came upon it by one coming from the south. The stream washed the

base of a lofty mountain which I ascended while the people were passing

our carts, cattle, and equipment across the rivulet which I named after

my trusty follower Burnett.* The mountain consisted of granite and was so

smooth that I could ride to its summit. The weather was boisterous and

the country which that height presented to my view seemed quite

inaccessible, at least in the direction of the colony where:

Hills upon hills and alps on alps arose.

(Footnote. See figure with the fowling-piece in Plate 17 Volume 1.)

IMPEDIMENTS IN THE ROUTE.

The only valley of any extent which could be seen was that watered by the

rivulet below, and this extended, as I have stated, to the westward, a

direction in which we could not follow it with any prospect of either

getting nearer home or reaching a cattle station. Our provisions were

exhausted, while the rocky fastnesses of a mountain region still

threatened to shut us out from the Murrumbidgee, a river on whose banks

we hoped to meet with civilised people once more and which, according to

the map, was almost within our reach. Again and again I examined the

mountains with my glass, and only discovered that they were numerous and

all ranging towards the north-west, a direction right across our way to

the Murrumbidgee. I could indeed trace among the hills in the north the

grand valley through which the river flowed, but the intervening ranges

seemed to deny any access to it from this side. I was determined however

to find some valley likely to lead us into that of the Murrumbidgee, and

although it could only be looked for beyond that mountain range, our

route had been so good and so direct thus far, from the very shores of

the southern ocean, that I could not despair of crossing the

comparatively small space occupied by these mountains; and I descended

the hill firmly resolved to continue our course in the same direction as

we best could. I found on reaching the foot that, to the delight of the

men, more cattle marks had been discovered in the valley, and in one

place Piper pointed out a spot where a bullock had been eaten by the

natives. Following the little stream upwards I at length placed our camp

in a grassy valley near its head and then, on riding forward, I found

that no obstruction existed to our progress with the carts on the

following day for at least several miles.

October 23.

The hills we ascended offered much less impediment than I had reason to

apprehend when I surveyed them at a distance, but they became at length

so steep-sided and sharp-pointed that to proceed further, even by keeping

the crests of a range, seemed a very doubtful undertaking: to cross such

ranges was still more difficult while the principal chain, which led to

the south-east, appeared equally impracticable even had its direction

been more favourable.

AT LENGTH REACH A VALLEY LEADING IN THE DESIRED DIRECTION.

Drizzling rain came on and prevented me from seeing far beyond the point

we had reached when I at length halted the party and, taking Piper with

me, descended into a valley before us in order to ascertain its general

direction and whether the carts might not pass along it. We found in this

valley the tracks not of cattle only but of well shod horses: we also

discovered that it opened into extensive green flats and, its direction

being northerly, I hastened back and conducted the party into it by the

best line of descent I could find, although it was certainly very steep.

Having got safe down with our carts we found excellent pasturage, the

cattle marks being very numerous and at length quite fresh, even the

print of young calves’ feet appeared, and all the traces of a numerous

herd.

WILD CATTLE SEEN.

In short cattle tracks resembling roads ran along the banks of the chain

of ponds which watered this valley; and at length the welcome sight of

the cattle themselves delighted our longing eyes, not to mention our

stomachs which were then in the best possible state to assist our

perceptions of the beauty of a foreground of fat cattle. We were soon

surrounded by a staring herd consisting of at least 800 head, and I took

a shot at one; but my ball only made him jump, upon which the whole body,

apparently very wild, made off to the mountains.

OBLIGED TO KILL ONE OF OUR WORKING BULLOCKS.

Symptoms of famine now began to show themselves in the sullenness of some

of the men, and I most reluctantly allowed them to kill one of our poor

working animals, which was accordingly shot as soon as we encamped and

divided amongst the party.

BY FOLLOWING THE VALLEY DOWNWARDS, WE ARRIVE ON THE MURRUMBIDGEE.

The valley preserved a course somewhat to the westward of north, and I

now felt confident that by following it downwards we should reach the

Murrumbidgee without meeting further impediment. This unexpected relief

from the hopeless prospects of the drizzling morning was infinitely more

refreshing to me than any kind of food could possibly have been, even

under such circumstances.

October 24.

As we continued our journey downwards the waterholes in the chain of

ponds became small and scarce, while we found the cattle-tracks more and

more numerous. No change took place in the character of the valley for

nine miles; but I recognised then at no great distance the hills which on

the 22nd I had supposed to lie beyond the Murrumbidgee. On riding to a

small eminence on the right I perceived the dark umbrageous trees

overshadowing that noble river, and close before me the rich open flats

with tame cattle browsing upon them, or reclining in luxuriant ease, very

unlike the wild herd. The river was flowing westward over a gravelly

bottom, its scenery being highly embellished by the lofty casuarinae,

whose sombre masses of darkest green cover the water so gracefully and

afford both coolness and shade. Now we could trace the marks of horsemen

on the plain; and as we travelled up the river horses and cattle appeared

on both banks. At length we discovered a small house or station and a

stockyard. On riding up to it an old man came to the door, beating the

ashes from a loaf nearly two feet in diameter. His name was Billy Buckley

and the poor fellow received us all with the most cordial welcome,

supplying us at once with two days’ provisions until we could send across

the river for a supply. Just then several drays appeared on the opposite

side, coming along the ROAD from Sydney, and these drays contained a

supply from which Mr. Tompson the owner accommodated me with enough to

send back to meet Mr. Stapylton on the banks of the Murray.

WRITE MY DESPATCH.

Having pitched my tent close by the house of my new friend Billy, I wrote

a brief account of our proceedings to the government while my horses were

permitted to rest two days preparatory to my long ride to Sydney.

PIPER MEETS HIS FRIENDS.

Piper’s joy on emerging from the land of Myalls (or savages) was at least

as great as ours, especially when he met here with natives of his

acquaintance–”CIVIL blackfellows,” as he styled them, bel (not) Myalls.

He was at least a Triton among the minnows, and it was pleasant to see

how much he enjoyed his lionship among his brethren. Little Ballandella

had been taken great care of by Mrs. Piper and was now feasted with milk

and seemed quite happy.

NATIVE NAMES OF RIVERS.

I learnt from the natives we found here their names for the greater

rivers we had passed, and of some of the isolated hills. Everywhere the

Murray was known as the Millewa; but I was not so sure about Bayunga, a

name which I had understood to apply to the Goulburn, Hovell or Ovens.

A STOCK-KEEPER’S HOSPITALITY.

When Billy Buckley, who was only a stockkeeper at that station, saw my

party arrive and was at length aware who we were, he came to me when

enjoying a quiet walk on the riverbank at some distance from his house,

carrying in his hand a jug of rich milk and a piece of bread which I

afterwards learnt, with dismay, had been baked in butter. I felt bound in

civility to partake of both, but the consequence was an illness which

very much interfered with my enjoyment of that luxuriant repose I had

anticipated in my tent, under the shade of the casuarinae on the brink of

the living stream.

Sorry for the break in correspondence,
But having returned to the road a few weeks ago,
To continue South-west through Victoria,
from Mt Hope to Willaura, then on to Castlemaine.

Via: Pyramid Hill, Boort, Mt Korong, Wedderburn, Logan, Callawadda, Stawell, Pomonal, Mt William, Gariwerd/ Grampians, Mt Zero, Nattimuck, Mt Arapiles, Casterton, Dartmoor, Glenelg River, Nelson, Portland, Milltown, Heywood, Mount Napier, Hamilton, Condah, Dunkeld, Willaura, Buangor, Lexton, Talbot., Mt Greenock, Tullaroop Creek, and Newstead.

A wonderful 3 weeks it was,
Glowing green after all this amazing rain!!
Frogs singing, birds dancing,
Nature blooming.
Great photos coming soon.

I then proceeded to have,
what turned out to be
a fairly Major Computer Meltdown.

Returned to Castlemaine,
Not for 3 days, but 9.
- also: sore back, doggy funeral for tricky miss vikki, doctor, etc.
Car exhaust problems.
Finally, all fixed and Sorted.

Many, many, many thanks to:
Fabulous and supportive friend & mentor Simon,
brilliant Apple Mac friend Tony.
Excellent mechanic Daz,
Jude and Co.

Still, it’s hard not to get
a bit Exhausted by all the Technicalities!!!

Had a great weekend in Castlemaine,
Excellent talk at Ray Bradfield room, Fri Night,
And enjoyable – shortened walk on Saturday,
When at Kalimna Point, the rain set in.
Headed for Mt Alexander, as it cleared.

Good progress also with home Renos,
thankyou Simon.

and
I am back Track on again.

There’s so much to say,
And I’m never quite sure where to start.

To be honest.
It’s all a tiny bit Overwhelming!

It’s been Fab, and amazing
- Adventure, Journey, Expedition.
I’m Loving it.
All of my interests and passions combined.
Indigenous, Environment, Art, Nature.
Expeditioning.

and There is So much to do
And, So Much to Organize!!

The Major Mitchell Expedition to Australia Felix,
is about to hit 175 years!!
- next year
1836 – 2011

Currently the organising team consists of 70% Eliza Tree,
With the other 30 % of the committee being Indigo, Simon & Jude.
Each providing fabulous and essential support,
- Thankyou Team.!

And yes, So much to Organize.

An interesting time for Reflection
and – Exploration.
But I also think: good time to Re-Visit.

And I am,
And I willl,
In ‘the Expedition Exhibition.’
Castlemaine State Festival,
April 2011.

So now,
As well as finishing the Journey,
I have begun the exciting process of painting my Exhibition,
Which is to be a ‘Visual Narrative’
: the land, the People, the exploring party.
the birds, plants and animals.
Geology, Ecology, Biology.
Looking closely at Mitchell’ images and words.
Contextualising and revealing.

There is much to Say and Paint!

As well,
there is next year to Organize.
The commemoration/ recognition of 175 years,
Since T L Mitchell passed through these fine lands,
Which had been occupied since time immemorial,
by the Indigenous Peoples,
Living with knowledge and skill,
within their Cultural Landscape.

So, next year I will re-do the journey,
And bring a travelling Party with me..
to share it with the communities,
There are many interesting and colourful stories to be told.
Great sites to visit,
Ideas to be explored.

And / so
Tomorrow I will return to the ‘road’,
Passing through another part of Jaara Jaara country.

And then on to Sydney,
Via Mitchell’s more direct,
homeward route.

-in this case: Via: Orange, Mt Canobolas & Boree,
to meet with the IWC Media.
And the Mitchellites,
To oraganise for next year!

..more soon…… eT

October 9.

Having buried on the left bank another letter of instructions for Mr.

Stapylton according to certain marks as previously arranged with him, we

mounted our boat on the carriage (which had been brought across early in

the morning) and continued our journey. I expected to find a ford in this

river but, considering the swollen state in which it then was, I

instructed Mr. Stapylton to remain encamped on the left bank until the

boat should return from the Murray, as beyond that river we were not

likely to have further occasion for it. Our way on leaving the Bayunga

was rather intricate, being amongst lagoons left by high floods of the

river. Some of them were fine sheets of water, apparently much frequented

by ducks and other aquatic birds.

LEVEL FOREST COUNTRY.

At exactly 2 1/2 miles from the river we reached the outer bank or berg,

and resumed at length the straight course homewards, for I there found a

level forest country open before me, through which we travelled about

eight miles in a south-east direction. We then encamped near some

waterholes which I found on our right, in the surface of a clay soil and

close to a plain extending southward. The wood throughout the forest

consisted of the box or goborro species of eucalyptus and we crossed,

soon after first entering it, a small plain. At 3 1/2 miles from the last

camp on this line, the low alluvial bed of the river with a deep lagoon

in it as broad as the river itself appeared close to us on the left; and

as I had seen some indications of the Bayunga on the other side also, or

to our right, it was obvious that we had just met with this river at one

of its most western bends, an object I had in view in following down the

Deegay from the westward. The forest country traversed by the party this

day was in general grassy and good and, as it was open enough to afford a

prospect of about a mile around us, we travelled on in a straight line

with unwonted ease and facility.

October 10.

We continued our journey homeward through a country of the same character

as that seen yesterday, at least for the first five miles, when we came

at length to a chain of deep ponds, the second we had encountered that

morning. In the bank of this I found a stratum of alluvium; but beyond it

the soil was granitic, and banksia was seen there for the first time

after crossing the river. At 7 1/4 miles we met with another chain of

large ponds, and at 9 miles a running stream flowing to the north-west.

After passing over various other chains of ponds we encamped at the end

of 14 1/2 miles near the bank of a running stream in which were also some

deep pools and which, from some flowers growing there, were named by the

men Violet Ponds.

October 11.

Having turned my course a little more towards the east in order to keep

the hills in view, chiefly for the more convenient continuance of the

survey, we passed through a country abundantly watered at that time, the

party having crossed eight running streams besides chains of ponds in

travelling only 14 miles. Towards the end of the day’s journey we found

ourselves once more on undulating ground, and I at length perceived on my

right that particular height which, at a distance of 80 miles back, I had

selected as a guiding point in the direction which then appeared the most

open part of the horizon, this being also in the best line for reaching

the Murrumbidgee below Yass. It was the elevated northern extremity of a

range connected with others still more lofty which arose to the

south-east. We crossed some undulating ground near its base on which grew

trees of stringybark, a species of eucalyptus which had not been

previously seen in the forests traversed by us in our way from the river.

We next entered a valley of a finer description of land than that of the

level forest; and we encamped on the bank of a stream which formed deep

reedy ponds, having travelled 14 miles.

As soon as I had marked out the ground for the party I proceeded towards

a hill which bore east-south-east from our camp and was distant from it

about 5 1/2 miles. On our way an emu ran boldly up, apparently desirous

of becoming acquainted with our horses; when close to us it stood still

and began quietly to feed like a domestic fowl so that I was at first

unwilling to take a shot at the social and friendly bird. The state of

our flour however, and the recollection of our one remaining sheep

already doomed to die, at length overcame my scruples, and I fired my

carabine but missed. The bird ran only to a little distance however, and

soon returned at a rapid rate again to feed beside us when, fortunately

perhaps for the emu, I had no more time to spare for such sport and we

proceeded.

ASCEND A HEIGHT NEAR THE CAMP, AND OBTAIN A SIGHT OF SNOWY SUMMITS TO THE EASTWARD.

The top of the hill was covered thickly with wood, but I saw for the

first time for some years snowy pics far in the south-east beyond

intermediate mountains also of considerable elevation. There was one low

group of heights to the northward, but these were apparently the last,

for the dead level of the interior was visible beyond them to the

north-west. Further eastward a bold range extended too far towards the

north to be turned conveniently by us in our proposed route; but under

its high southern extremity (a very remarkable point) its connection with

the mountains on the south appeared very low, and thither I determined to

proceed. One isolated hill far in the north-western interior had already

proved a useful point and was still visible here. I also saw the distant

ranges to the eastward beyond the proposed pass just mentioned, and some

of these I had no doubt lay beyond the Murray. The hill and range I had

ascended consisted of granite, and the country between it and our camp of

grassy open forest land.

October 12.

We passed over a country of similar description and well watered

throughout the greater portion of this day’s journey. In some parts the

surface consisted of stiff clay retaining the surface water in holes, and

at ten miles we crossed an undulating ridge of quartz rock; two miles

beyond which we encamped near a stream running northward.

REACH A SWAMPY RIVER.

October 13.

At 3 1/4 miles we came to a river of very irregular width and which, as I

found on further examination, spread into broad lagoons and swamps

bordered with reeds. Where we first approached it the bank was high and

firm, the water forming a broad reach evidently very deep. But both above

and below that point the stream, actually flowing, seemed fordable and we

tried it in various places, but the bottom was everywhere soft and

swampy.

A MAN DROWNED.

The man whom I usually employed on these occasions was James Taylor who

had charge of the horses and who, on this unfortunate morning, was fated

to lose his life in that swampy river. Taylor, or Tally-ho, as the other

men called him, had been brought up in a hunting stable in England, and

was always desirous of going further than I was willing to allow him,

relying too much, as it now appeared, on his skill in swimming his horse,

which I had often before prevented him from doing. I had on this occasion

recalled him from different parts of the river, and determined to use the

boat and swim the cattle and horses to the other side, when Tally-ho

proposed to swim over on a horse in order to ascertain where the opposite

bank was most favourable for the cattle to get out. I agreed to his

crossing thus wherever he thought he could; and he rode towards a place

which I conceived was by no means the best, and accordingly said so to

him. I did not hear his reply, for he was just then riding into the

water, and I could no longer see him from where I stood on the edge of a

swampy hole. But scarcely a minute had elapsed when Burnett, going on

foot to the spot, called out for all the men who could dive, at the same

time exclaiming “the man’s gone!” The horse came out with the bridle on

his neck just as I reached the water’s edge, but of poor Tally-ho I saw

only the cap floating on the river. Four persons were immediately in the

water–Piper, his gin, and two whites–and at six or eight minutes at

most Piper brought the body up from the bottom. It was quite warm and

immediately almost all the means recommended in such cases were applied

by our medical attendant (Drysdale) who, having come from

Newcastle-upon-Tyne, had seen many cases of that description. For three

hours the animal heat was preserved by chafing the body, and during the

whole of that time the lungs were alternately inflated and compressed,

but all without success. With a sincerity of grief which must always

pervade the breasts of men losing one of their number under such

circumstances, we consigned the body of poor Taylor to a deep grave, the

doctor having previously laid it out between two large sheets of bark. I

was myself confounded with the most heart-felt sorrow when I turned from

the grave of poor Tally-ho, never to hear his bugle blast again.* It was

late before we commenced the passage of this fatal river which, although

apparently narrow, we could only cross in the same manner in which we had

passed the largest, namely, by swimming the cattle and horses, and

carrying every article of equipment across in the boat. We effected even

thus however the passage of the whole party before sunset; and then

encamped on the opposite bank.

(*Footnote. How this man could have died in the water in so short a time

we did not understand, but it was conjectured that he had received some

blow from the horse, until we were subsequently informed when on the

Murrumbidgee by a person there who knew Taylor that he was subject to

fits, a fact which satisfied us all as to the sudden manner of his

death.)

October 14.

As we proceeded the broad swampy bed of this river or morass appeared on

our right for a mile, the country being still covered by an open forest

of box, having also grass enough upon it. At eight miles we approached

some low hills of clay-slate, and I ascended one to the southward of our

route from which I recognised a sufficient number of previously observed

points to enable me to determine its relative position and theirs. On

this hill I found the beautiful Brownonia which we had seen before only

on Macquarie range beside the Lachlan. We here also met with the rare

Spadostylis cunninghamii, whose heart-shaped glaucous leaves so much

reminded us of the European euphorbias that it would have been mistaken

for one of them if it had not been for its shrubby habit and bright

yellow pea flowers.

PASS THROUGH FUTTER’S RANGE.

The country crossed beyond this hill was first undulating then hilly, and

at length became so much so that it was necessary to pick a way for the

carts with much caution. Nevertheless we at length succeeded in crossing

this range also at its lowest part where the hill to the northward of it,

already mentioned as the end of a range, bore nearly north. On reaching

the head of this pass the prospect before us, after winding through such

a labyrinth of hills, was agreeable enough. One fertile hollow led to an

open level country which appeared to be bounded at a great distance by

mountains; and I concluded that I should find in this extens…

September 24.

The morning was rainy and our way having to be traced up the ravines and

round the hills was very tortuous for the first three miles. We then

reached the dividing part of the range and descended immediately after

into valleys of a less intricate character. Having passed over the swampy

bed of a rivulet flowing southward, and having also crossed several fine

bold ridges with good streams between them, we at length encamped near a

round hill which, being clear on the summit, was therefore a favourable

station for the theodolite. This hill also consisted of granite and

commanded an open and extensive view over the country to the eastward.

September 25.

One bold range of forest land appeared before us and after crossing it we

passed over several rivulets falling northward, then over a ridge of

trappean conglomerate with embedded quartz pebbles, and descended into a

valley of the finest description. Grassy hills clear of timber appeared

beyond a stream also flowing northward. These hills consisted of old

vesicular lava. We next entered a forest of very large trees of ironbark

eucalyptus, and we finally encamped in a grassy valley in the midst of

this forest.

September 26.

We first crossed more hills of the trappean conglomerate on which grew

ironbark eucalypti and box. The rock consisted of a base of compact

felspar with embedded grains of quartz, giving to some parts the

character of conglomerate, and there were also embedded crystals of

common felspar. By diverging a little to the right we entered upon an

open tract of the most favourable aspect, stretching away to the

south-west among similar hills until they were lost in the extreme

distance. The whole surface was green as an emerald and on our right for

some miles ran a fine rivulet between steep grassy banks and over a bed

of trap-rock.

MAMMELOID HILLS.

At length this stream was joined by two others coming through similar

grassy valleys from the south; and when we approached two lofty smooth

round hills, green to their summits, the united streams flowed in an open

dell which our carts rolled through without meeting any impediment. I

ascended the most western of these hills as it was a point which I had

observed from various distant stations, and I enjoyed such a charming

view eastward from the summit as can but seldom fall to the lot of the

explorers of new countries. The surface presented the forms of pristine

beauty clothed in the hues of spring; and the shining verdure of these

smooth and symmetrical hills was relieved by the darker hues of the wood

with which they were interlaced; which exhibited every variety of tint,

from a dark brown in the foreground to a light blue in extreme distance.

LAVA, THE SURFACE ROCK.

The hills consisted entirely of lava and I named them from their peculiar

shape the Mammeloid hills, and the station on which I stood Mount

Greenock. In travelling through this Eden no road was necessary, nor any

ingenuity in conducting wheel-carriages wherever we chose. The beautiful

little terrestrial orchidaceous plants Caladenia dilatata and Diuris

aurea were already in full bloom; and we also found on the plains this

day a most curious little bush resembling a heath in foliage, but with

solitary polypetalous flowers resembling those of Sollya.* When we had

completed fourteen miles we encamped on the edge of an open plain and

near a small rivulet, the opposite bank consisting of grassy forest land.

(*Footnote. This has been ascertained to be a new species of the genus

Campylanthera of Hooker, or Pronaya of Baron Hugel, of which two species

were found by the latter botanist and the late Mr. Frazer at Swan River.

Campylanthera ericoides, Lindley manuscripts; erecta, fruticosa, glabra,

foliis oblongo-cuneatis mucronatis margine revolutis, floribus solitariis

terminalibus erectis, antheris subrotundis.)

ABORIGINAL IMITATIONS.

September 27.

I was surprised to hear the voice of a Scotchwoman in the camp this

morning. The peculiar accent and rapid utterance could not be mistaken as

I thought, and I called to inquire who the stranger was, when I

ascertained that it was only Tommy Came-last who was imitating a Scotch

female who, as I then learnt, was at Portland Bay and had been very kind

to Tommy. The imitation was ridiculously true through all the modulations

of that peculiar accent although, strange to say, without the

pronunciation of a single intelligible word. The talent of the aborigines

for imitation seems a peculiar trait in their character. I was informed

that The Widow could also amuse the men occasionally by enacting their

leader, taking angles, drawing from nature, etc.

While the party went forward over the open plains with Mr. Stapylton I

ascended a smooth round hill, distant about a mile to the southward of

our camp, from which I could with ease continue my survey by means of

hills on all sides, the highest of them being to the southward. I could

trace the rivulets flowing northward into one or two principal channels,

near several masses of mountain: these channels and ranges being probably

connected with those crossed by us on our route from the Murray. In these

bare hills and on the open grassy plains, old vesicular lava abounded;

small loose elongated fragments lay on the round hills, having a red

scorified appearance and being also so cellular as to be nearly as light

as pumice. We this day crossed several fine running streams and forests

of box and bluegum growing on ridges of trappean conglomerate. At length

we entered on a very level and extensive flat, exceedingly green and

resembling an English park. It was bounded on the east by a small river

flowing to the north-west (probably the Loddon) and abrupt but grassy

slopes arose beyond its right bank. After crossing this stream we

encamped, having travelled nearly fifteen miles in one straight line

bearing 60 1/2 degrees east of north. This tract was rather of a

different character from that of the fine country of which we had

previously seen so much, and we saw for the first time the Discaria

australis, a remarkable green leafless spiny bush and resembling in a

most striking manner the Colletias of Chili. Sheltered on every side by

woods or higher ground, the spring seemed more advanced there than

elsewhere, and our hard wrought cattle well deserved to be the first to

browse on that verdant plain. The stream in its course downwards vanished

amongst grassy hills to water a country apparently of the most

interesting and valuable character.

September 28.

The steep banks beyond the river consisted of clay-slate having under it

a conglomerate containing fragments of quartz cemented by compact

haematite.

SNAKES EATEN BY THE NATIVES.

The day was hot and we killed several large snakes of the species eaten

by the natives. I observed that our guides looked at the colour of the

belly when in any doubt about the sort they preferred; these were

white-bellied, whereas the belly of a very fierce one with a large head,

of which Piper and the others seemed much afraid, was yellow. On cutting

this snake open two young quails were found within: one of them not being

quite dead. The country we crossed during the early part of the day was

at least as fine as that we had left. We passed alternately through

strips of forest and over open flats well watered, the streams flowing

southward; and at nine miles we crossed a large stream also flowing in

that direction: all these being evidently tributaries to that on which we

had been encamped. Beyond the greater stream, where we last crossed it,

the country presented more of the mountain character, but good strong

grass grew among the trees, which consisted of box and lofty bluegum.

After making out upwards of eleven miles, we encamped in a valley where

water lodged in holes and where we found also abundance of grass. We were

fast approaching those summits which had guided me in my route from Mount

Cole, then more than fifty miles behind us. Like that mountain these

heights also belonged to a lofty range, and like it were beside a very

low part of it, through which I hoped to effect a passage. Leaving the

party to encamp I proceeded forward in search of the hill I had so long

seen before me, and I found that the hills immediately beyond our camp

were part of the dividing range and broken into deep ravines on the

eastern side. Pursuing the connection between them and the still higher

summits on the north-east, I came at length upon an open valley enclosed

by hills very lightly wooded. This change was evidently owing to a

difference in the rock which was a fine-grained granite, whereas the

hills we had recently crossed belonged chiefly to the volcanic class of

rocks, with the exception of the range I had traversed that evening in my

way from the camp, which consisted of ferruginous sandstone. With the

change of rock a difference was also obvious in the shape of the hills,

the quantity and quality of the water, and the character of the trees.

The hills presented a bold sweeping outline and were no longer broken by

sharp-edged strata but crowned with large round masses of rock. Running

water was gushing from every hollow in much greater abundance than

elsewhere; and lastly the timber, which on the other ranges consisted

chiefly of ironbark and stringybark, now presented the shining bark of

the bluegum or yarra and the grey hue of the box. The Anthisteria

australis, a grass which seems to delight in a granitic soil, also

appeared in great abundance, and we also found the aromatic tea, Tasmania

aromatica, which represents in New Holland the winter’s bark of the

southern extremity of South America. The leaves and bark of this tree

have a hot biting cinnamon-like taste on which account it is vulgarly

called the pepper-tree.

ASCEND MOUNT BYNG. – LEANGANOOK (Now Mt Alexander)

I could ride with ease to the summit of the friendly hill that I had seen

from afar, and found it but thinly wooded so that I could take my angles

around the horizon without difficulty. Again reminded by the similar

aspect this region presented of the lower Pyrenees and the pass of

Orbaicetta, I named the summit Mount Byng.

RICH GRASS.

A country fully as promising as the fine region we had left was embraced

in my view from that point. I perceived long patches of open plain

interspersed with forest hills and low woody ranges, among which I could

trace out a good line of route for another fifty miles homewards. The

highest of the mountains lay to the south and evidently belonged to the

coast range, if it might be so called; and on that side a lofty mass

arose above the rest and promised a view towards the sea, that height

being distant from the hill on which I stood about thirty miles. A broad

chain of woody hills connected the coast range with Mount Byng, and I

could trace the general course of several important streams through the

country to the east of it. Northward I saw a little of the interior

plains and the points where the various ranges terminated upon them. The

sun was setting when I left Mount Byng but I depended on one of our

natives, Tommy Came-last, who was then with me, for finding our way to

the camp; and who on such occasions could trace my steps backwards with

wonderful facility by day or night.

EXPEDITION PASS.

September 29.

The range before us was certainly rather formidable for the passage of

carts, but home lay beyond it, while delay and famine were synonymous

terms with us at that time. By following up the valley in which we had

encamped I found early on this morning an easy way through which the

carts might gain the lowest part of the range. Having conducted them to

this point without any other inconvenience besides the overturning of one

cart (from bad driving) we descended along the hollow of a ravine after

making it passable by throwing some rocks into the narrow part near its

head. The ravine at length opened, as I had expected, into a grassy

valley with a fine rivulet flowing through it, and from this valley we

debouched into the still more open granitic country at the foot of Mount

Byng. The pass thus auspiciously discovered and opened, over a neck

apparently the very lowest of the whole range, I named Expedition-pass,

confident that such a line of communication between the southern coast

and Sydney must, in the course of time, become a very considerable

thoroughfare. The change of soil however introduced us to the old

difficulty from which we had been happily relieved for some time, for we

came once more upon rotten and boggy ground. We met with this unexpected

impediment in an open-looking flat near a rivulet I was about to cross,

when I found the surface so extremely soft and yielding that from the

extreme resistance a bolt of the boat-carriage gave way, a circumstance

which obliged us immediately to encamp although we had travelled only

four miles.

EXCURSION TOWARDS PORT PHILLIP.

September 30.

Compelled thus to await the repair of the boat-carriage I determined to

make an excursion to the lofty mountain mass which appeared about thirty

miles to the southward, in order that I might connect my survey with Port

Phillip, which I hoped to see thence. The horses were not found as soon

as they were required, but when we at last got upon their backs we were

therefore less disposed to spare them.

DISCOVER AND CROSS THE RIVER BARNARD.

We crossed some soft hollows during the first few miles, and then arrived

on the banks of a small and deep river with reeds on its borders, and

containing many broad and deep reaches. It was full and flowed, but not

rapidly, towards the north-east, and it was not until we had continued

along the left bank of this stream for a considerable way upwards that we

found a rapid where we could cross without swimming. The left bank was of

bold acclivity but grassy and clear of timber, being very level on the

summit; and I found it consisted of trap-rock of the same vesicular

character which I had observed in so many other parts of this southern

region. Beyond the river (which I then named the Barnard) we first

encountered a hilly country from which we emerged rather unexpectedly;

for after crossing a small rivulet flowing in a deep and grassy dell

where trap-rock again appeared, and ascending the opposite slope, we

found that the summit consisted of an open level country of the finest

description. It was covered with the best kind of grass and the immediate

object of our ride, the mountain, was now visible beyond these rich

plains. Some fine forest-hills arose in various directions to the right

and left, and indeed I never saw a more pleasing or promising portion of

territory. The rich open ground across which we rode was not without

slight undulations; and when we had traversed about four miles of it we

came quite unawares to a full and flowing stream, nearly on a level with

its grassy banks; the bottom being so sound that we forded it without the

least difficulty.

EMUS NUMEROUS AND TAME.

Emus were very numerous on the downs and their curiosity brought them to

stare at our horses, apparently unconscious of the presence of the biped

on their backs whom both birds and beasts seem instinctively to avoid. In

one flock I counted twenty-nine emus, and so near did they come to us

that, having no rifle with me, I was tempted to discharge even my pistol

at one, although without effect. Kangaroos were equally numerous. Having

proceeded three miles beyond the stream we came to another flowing to the

westward between some very deep ponds, and it was probably a tributary to

the first.

THE RIVER CAMPASPE.

At twenty-two miles from the camp, on descending from some finely

undulating open ground, we arrived at a stream flowing westward, which I

judged to be also a branch of that we had first crossed. Its bed

consisted of granitic rocks and on the left bank I found trap. We had

this stream afterwards in sight on our left until, at two miles further,

we again crossed it and entered a wood of eucalyptus, being then only

five miles distant from the mountain, and we subsequently found that this

wood extended to its base.

EFFECTS OF A STORM IN THE WOODS.

The effects of some violent hurricane from the north were visible under

every tree, the earth being covered with broken branches, some of which

were more than a foot in diameter; the withering leaves remained upon

them, and I remarked that no whole trees had been blown down, although

almost all had lost their principal limbs and not a few had been reduced

to bare poles. The havoc which the storm had made gave an unusual aspect

to the whole of the forest land, so universally was it covered with

withering branches. Whether this region is subject to frequent

visitations of a like nature I could not of course then ascertain; but I

perceived that many of the trees had lost some of their top limbs at a

much earlier period in a similar manner. Neither had this been but a

partial tempest, for to the very base of the mountain the same effects

were visible. The trees on its side were of a much grander character than

those in the forest, and consisted principally of black-butt and bluegum

eucalypti measuring from six to eight feet in diameter. The rock was

syenite, so weathered as to resemble sandstone.

ASCEND MOUNT MACEDON.

I ascended without having been obliged to alight from my horse, and I

found that the summit was very spacious, being covered towards the south

with tree-ferns, and the musk-plant grew in great luxuriance. I saw also

many other plants found at the Illawarra, on the eastern coast of the

colony of New South Wales. The summit was full of wombat holes and,

unlike that side by which I had ascended, it was covered with the dead

trunks of enormous trees in all stages of decay.

PORT PHILLIP DIMLY SEEN FROM IT.

I had two important objects in view in ascending this hill; one being to

determine its position trigonometrically as a point likely to be seen

from the country to which I was going, where it might be useful to me in

fixing other points; the other being to obtain a view of Port Phillip,

and thus to connect my survey with that harbour. But the tree-fern,

musk-plant, brush, and lofty timber together shut us up for a long time

from any prospect of the low country to the southward, and it was not

until I had nearly exhausted a fine sunny afternoon in wandering round

the broad summit that I could distinguish and recognise some of the hills

to the westward; and when I at length obtained a glimpse of the country

towards the coast the features of the earth could scarcely be

distinguished from the sky or sea, although one dark point looked more

like a cape than a cloud and seemed to remain steady. With my glass I

perceived that water lay inside of that cape and that low plains extended

northward from the water. I next discovered a hilly point outside of the

cape or towards the sea; and on descending the hill to where the trees

grew less thickly I obtained an uninterrupted view of the whole piece of

water. As the sun went down the distant horizon became clearer towards

the coast and I intersected at length the two capes; also one at the head

of the bay and several detached hills. I perceived distinctly the course

of the Exe and Arundell rivers and a line of mangrove trees along the low

shore. In short I at length recognised Port Phillip and the intervening

country around it at a distance afterwards ascertained to be upwards of

fifty miles from Indented Head, which proved to be the first cape I had

seen; that outside (at A) being Point Nepean on the east side of the

entrance to this bay. At that vast distance I could trace no signs of

life about this harbour. No stockyards, cattle, nor even smoke, although

at the highest northern point of the bay I saw a mass of white objects

which might have been either tents or vessels. I perceived a white speck,

which I took for breakers or white sand, on the projecting point of the

north-eastern shore. (B.) On that day nine years exactly I first beheld

the heads of Port Jackson, a rather singular coincidence. Thus the

mountain on which I stood became an important point in my survey, and I

gave it the name of Mount Macedon, with reference to that of Port

Phillip.* It had been long dark before I reached the base of the mountain

and picked out a dry bit of turf on which to lie down for the night.

(*Footnote. Geboor is the native name of this hill, as since ascertained

by my friend Captain King, and it is a much better one, having fewer

letters and being aboriginal.)

October 1.

The morning was cloudy with drizzling rain, a circumstance which

prevented me from re-ascending a naked rock on the north-eastern summit

to extend my observations over the country we were about to traverse. I

found decomposed gneiss at the base of this hill.

RETURN TO THE CAMP.

While returning to the camp we saw great numbers of kangaroos but could

not add to our stock of provisions, having neither dogs nor a rifle with

us. I found on my arrival at the camp that the boat-carriage having been

made once more serviceable, the party was quite ready to move forward in

the morning.

October 2.

The day being Sunday and the weather unfavourable, as it rained heavily,

the barometer having also fallen more than half an inch, I made it a day

of rest for the benefit of our jaded horses, notwithstanding our own

short rations. I was also very desirous to complete some work on the map.

CONTINUE OUR HOMEWARD JOURNEY.

October 3.

A clear morning: I buried another letter for Mr. Stapylton, informing him

how he might best avoid the mud; and then we proceeded along the highest

points of the ground, thus keeping clear of that which was boggy, and we

found the surface to improve much in this respect as we receded from the

base of the higher range. We crossed some fine valleys, each watered by a

running stream; and all the hills consisted of granite. The various

rivulets we crossed fell southwards into one we had seen in a valley on

our right which continued from the base of the mountain, and this rivulet

at length entered a still deeper valley in which there was very little

wood, the hills on the opposite side being uncommonly level at the top.

In this valley a fine stream ran northward, being undoubtedly the

Barnard, or first river crossed by us on our way to Mount Macedon. We

succeeded in finding a ford, but although it was deep a greater

difficulty to be overcome was the descent of our carts to it, so abrupt

and steep-sided was the ravine in which the Barnard flowed.

WATERFALL OF COBAW.

When we had effected at length a descent and a passage across, having

also established our camp beyond this stream, I rode up the bank towards

a noise of falling water, and thus came to a very fine cascade of upwards

of sixty feet. The river indeed fell more than double that height, but in

the lower part the water escaped unseen, flowing amongst large blocks of

granite. I had visited several waterfalls in Scotland, but this was

certainly the most picturesque I had witnessed; although the effect was

not so much in the body of water falling, or the loud noise, as in the

bold character of the rocks over and amongst which it fell. Their colour

and shape were harmonized into a more complete scene than nature usually

presents, resembling the finished subject of an artist, foreground and

all. The prevailing hues were light red and purple-grey, the rocks being

finely interlaced with a small-leaved creeper of the brightest green. A

dark-coloured moss, which presents a warm green in the sun, covered the

lower masses and relieved and supported the brighter hues, while a

brilliant iris shone steadily in the spray, and blended into perfect

harmony the lighter hues of the higher rocks and the whiteness of the

torrent rushing over them. The banks of this stream were of so bold a

character that in all probability other picturesque scenery, perhaps

finer than this, may yet be found upon it.

SINGULAR COUNTRY ON THE BARNARD.

The geological character of the adjacent country was sufficiently

striking–the left bank consisted of undulating hills and bold rocks of

granite; the right of trap-rock in the higher part, and presented a

remarkable contrast to the other, from the perfectly level character of

the summits of adjacent hills, as if the whole had been once in a fluid

state. Some of these table hills were separated by dry grassy vales of

excellent soil. Further back the rugged crests of a wooded range of a

different formation rendered the level character of this ancient lava or

vesicular trap more obvious. The hills behind consisted in the higher

parts of a felspathic conglomerate and clay-slate dipping to the

eastward.

The country looked fine to the south and also northward, or down the

stream. By keeping along a winding valley we ascended without

inconvenience between these curiously scarped trap hills.

October 5.

We found the trees on the low range much broken like those near Mount

Macedon, and the ground strewed here also with withering boughs, the

result apparently of the same storm, the destructive effects of which we

had noticed on the trees there.

CROSS THE CAMPASPE.

Beyond the clay-stone range we entered on another open and grassy tract

where trap-rock again appeared; and at four miles and a half we descended

into a grassy ravine in which we found another river flowing northward;

this being apparently the second river crossed in my ride to Mount

Macedon and which I now named the Campaspe. It was difficult to find in

this stream any fordable place where the banks could be approached by the

carts, one side or the other always proving too steep; but at length we

succeeded. Strata of clay-slate inclined almost perpendicularly to the

horizon projected at parts of the left bank, and over this clay-slate I

found trap-rock. Beyond the Campaspe we crossed plains and much open

land. At length on descending a little from a sort of table the trap was

no longer to be seen, and we entered a wood where sandstone seemed to

predominate, the strata dipping to the south-west. Fine grassy slopes

extended through this forest, which was also so open that we could see

each way for several miles. A rich variety of yellow flowers adorned the

verdure among which the Caladenia and Diuris aurea, and also a large

white Anguillaria, were very abundant.

AN ENGLISH RAZOR FOUND.

Piper found at an old native encampment a razor, and I had the

satisfaction of reading on the blade the words “Old English” in this wild

region, still so remote from civilised man’s dominion! In the afternoon a

remarkable change took place in the weather, for we had rain with an

easterly wind, the thermometer being at 68 degrees. We encamped on a

chain of deep ponds falling to the northward; reeds grew in them and we

endeavoured to catch cod-perch but without success, probably because the

natives of the country were too expert fishers to leave any in such

holes.

ASCEND MOUNT CAMPBELL.

October 6.

At two miles on we reached the summit of the range near Mount Campbell

which had partly bounded my view eastward from Mount Byng. A slight scrub

grew on this range but not so thickly as to be impervious to carts; and

after crossing it, as well as a succession of lower ridges, a good valley

at length appeared on the left, while another which was very wide and

green lay before us. At the further side of this and under another range

ran a deep mountain stream which was joined a little lower down by one

from the valley on the left: thus by following this stream I might have

turned the range, but it was not too steep to be crossed, and I required

some angles with the surrounding hills and the country before us. We

ascended it therefore and comparatively with ease; and from amongst the

trees on a hill I saw and intersected more points than I expected to see;

even Mount Macedon was visible and, to the eastward, summits which I was

almost certain lay beyond the river Goulburn. The descent from this ridge

to the eastward was rather steep; but we immediately after entered an

open forest in a valley which led very nearly in the direction of my

intended route.

NATIVE BEVERAGE.

The adjacent forest consisted of large trees of ironbark, the first of

that species of eucalyptus that we had seen for a considerable time. This

tree was then in flower, and we found in a large canoe at an old native

encampment a considerable quantity of the blossoms, which had not been

long cut. Piper explained the purpose for which these flowers had been

gathered by informing me that, by steeping them a night in water, the

natives make a sweet beverage named bool.

VALLEY OF THE DEEGAY.

October 7.

The whole of this day’s journey (fourteen miles) was along the same

valley that we had entered yesterday. The deep bed of a stream, then

containing a chain of ponds only, pursued a meandering course through it.

We saw in this valley a pair of cockatoos with the scarlet and yellow

top-knot. (Plate 23.) We had not been long encamped when intelligence was

brought me by Piper that a party of natives were following our track, and

soon after, Burnett and he having gone out to encourage them to come up,

seven, including an old man and two boys, approached and I hastened out

to meet them that they might not sit down too close to our camp. They

told us the creek watering this long valley was named Deegay.

NATIVES EXCHANGE BASKETS FOR AXES.

Three of them carried very neatly-wrought baskets, and I gave two

tomahawks in exchange for two of the baskets, and then making signs that

it was time to sleep I returned to my tent, hoping that they would go to

their tribe.

THEY LINGER ABOUT OUR CAMP.

On looking out however some time after, I found that two had walked

boldly up to our fires, while the others continued to cower over a few

embers at the spot where I left them; the evening being very cold and

stormy. Piper, who at first seemed much disposed to make friends of these

people, had found that his endeavours to conciliate strange natives were

as usual in vain, and was now going about sword in hand, while three of

the strangers seemed desirous to assuage his anger by telling him a long

yarn. The other, who was the old man, was casting a covetous eye on all

things around the camp. When I went out they retired to the group, but

long after it had become quite dark there they still sat, having scarcely

any fire and evidently bent on mischief.

EFFECT OF FIREWORKS, ETC.

I really was not sorry then to find that they still continued, for I had

made arrangements for having a little amusement in that case, although

their object in lingering there was nothing less than to kill us when

asleep. Accordingly at a given signal Burnett suddenly sallied forth

wearing a gilt mask and holding in his hand a blue light with which he

fired a rocket.* Two men concealed behind the boat-carriage bellowed

hideously through speaking trumpets, while all the others shouted and

discharged their carabines in the air. Burnett marched solemnly towards

the astonished natives who were seen through the gloom but for an instant

as they made their escape and disappeared forever; leaving behind them

however rough-shaped heavy clubs which they had made there in the dark

with the new tomahawks we had given them, and which clubs were doubtless

made for the sole purpose of beating out our brains as soon as we fell

asleep. Thus their savage thirst for our blood only afforded us some

hearty laughing. Such an instance of ingratitude was to me however a

subject of painful reflection. The clubs made in the dark, during a very

cold night, with the tomahawks I had given them, enabled me to understand

better what the intentions of the natives had been in other similar

cases; and I was at length convinced that no kindness had the slightest

effect in altering the disposition and savage desire of these wild men to

kill white strangers on their first coming among them. That Australia can

never be explored with safety except by very powerful parties will

probably be proved by the treacherous murder of many brave white men.**

(*Footnote. The use of these masks, which I on several occasions

displayed with success, was first suggested to me by Sir John Jamison.)

(**Footnote. A distressing instance of this hostility towards the whites

on the part of the aborigines has since occurred not far from the very

spot where I wrote the above portion of my journal. Our line of route

soon became the high road from Sydney to Port Phillip, and it appears by

the Sydney newspapers (see Appendix 2.3) that the natives attacked a

party of fifteen men proceeding with cattle into these recently explored

regions. Although the whites had firearms the blacks killed seven of

them, leaving another so severely wounded that his recovery was deemed

hopeless. The winding swamp where this sudden attack by aboriginal

natives took place is marked Swampy River on the map, and from the

assembling of such a number at that point, exactly midway between the

Murrumbidgee and Port Phillip, therefore the most remote from settled

parts, and especially from the SUDDENNESS of that attack, the reader may

imagine the perilous situation of my party on the Darling and the lower

part of the Murray where, had any such attack but commenced successfully,

it is extremely improbable that any white man would have returned to the

settled districts.)

October 8.

The windings of the creek were this day more in our way as we proceeded

along the valley and, when in doubt whether it would be best for our

purpose to cross this channel or one joining it there from the south, I

perceived a small hill at no great distance beyond, upon which I halted

the party and ascended, when I saw that several ranges previously

observed were at no great distance before us. In these ranges a gap to

the south-east seemed to be the bed of the river which I knew we were

approaching, and which I therefore concluded we should find in the low

intervening country. Westward of the gap or ravine stood a large mass

which I thought might be the Mount Disappointment of Mr. Hume.

ARRIVAL AT, AND PASSAGE OF, THE GOULBURN.

On returning to the party we crossed the channel of the Deegay; but at

less than a mile further we were obliged to pass again to the right bank

at a point where its course tended northward. Soon after recrossing it we

met with a broad dry channel or lagoon, with lofty gum trees of the yarra

species on its borders, a proof that the river was at hand; and on

advancing three-quarters of a mile further we made the bank of the

Goulburn or Hovell, a fine river somewhat larger than the Murrumbidgee.*

Its banks and bed were firm; the breadth 60 yards; the mean depth as

ascertained by soundings being somewhat more there than two fathoms. The

velocity was at the rate of 100 yards in three minutes, or one mile and

240 yards per hour; the temperature of the water 54 degrees Fahrenheit.

After having ascertained that this river was nowhere fordable at that

time I sought an eligible place for swimming the cattle and horses across

and immediately launched the boat. All the animals reached the opposite

bank in safety; and by the evening every part of our equipment except the

boat-carriage was also across.

(*Footnote. This river has been unfortunate in obtaining a variety of

names and therefore less objection can be made to my preference of the

aboriginal which I ascertained through Piper to be Bayunga. We already

have a river Goulburn in New South Wales.)

FISH CAUGHT.

In this river we caught one or two very fine cod-perch, our old friends

Gristes peelii.

**Please check photos of my journey so far here**

Its now 9 weeks since I diverted to Castlemaine, initially planned to be 2 weeks

- now 2 months!  There are clearly many more distractions to deal with, than when Mitchell passed through this way!

As well as needing to visit the Dentist; attend Burke and Wills Events; spend time with my lovely man; start painting the Exhibition; The big one has been – planning for next year, to celebrate the 175 years since Mitchell’s Epic journey of 1836!

Having struck on the happy coincidence of following the Expedition this year : 2010.

It seems more must be done next year : 2011.    175 YEARS

March 17th:  set out on my Expedition , as did Mitchell, from Mt Canobolas, I have ‘expeditioned’ my way along, following Mitchell’s Maps and Journals; I have followed my Intuition and instincts, modern maps and GPS: Ventured to amazing places, met wonderful people, had interesting experiences, and camped for 4 months, mainly along river sides, often in Mitchell Camp Sites, with just me and my little doggy. (with 2 quick visits from Simon).

Most recently: A quick visit to my Dad in Nambour; then  Byron Bay to meet T.L.Mitchell’s Great great Grandson!! The fabulous Ted Sly!!; Sydney to vist Libraries, family and friends; South Coast for 50^th Birthday Party!!; Canberra: family & Museum /gallery.

And home again to Castlemaine.

Having re-established my Studio, it has given me time to expand my sketches, thoughts and ideas onto Canvas!

Time to think, plan and read. To further explore the questions, questions !– reading between the lines!

So now again I wait for the rain to pass, the sun to shine, and the tracks to dry. To return to Pyramid Hill/ Mt Hope! And my Journey.

September 14.

I was most anxious to ascend Mount Abrupt, the first peak to the
northward of Mount Sturgeon, that I might close my survey of these
mountains and also reconnoitre the country before us. This morning clouds
hung upon the mountains however, and I could scarcely indulge a hope that
the weather would be favourable for the purposed survey; nevertheless I
bent my steps towards the mountain, having first set the carpenter to
work to make an additional width of felloe to the narrow wheels of one of
the carts, that it might pass with less difficulty over soft ground. We
soon came to a deep stream flowing not FROM but apparently TOWARDS the
mountains; its general course being westward. It was so deep that our
horses could scarcely ford it without swimming. Reeds grew about and the
bottom was soft, although two kinds of rock appeared in its banks. On the
right was trap, on the left the ferruginous sandstone of which all these
mountains consist. We soon entered on the barren and sandy but firm
ground at their base which, with its peculiar trees and shrubs, appeared
so different from the grassy plains. The banksia, the casuarina, and the
hardy xanthorrhoea reminded us of former toils on the opposite side of
these ranges.

VIEW OF THE GRAMPIANS FROM THE SUMMIT.
The weather turned out better than I had expected, and from the summit of
Mount Abrupt I beheld a truly sublime scene; the whole of the mountains,
quite clear of clouds, the grand outline of the more distant masses
blended with the sky, and forming a blue and purple background for the
numerous peaks of the range on which I stood, which consisted of sharp
cones and perpendicular cliffs foreshortened so as to form one grand
feature only of the extensive landscape, though composing a crescent
nearly 30 miles in extent: this range being but a branch from the still
more lofty masses of Mount William which crowned the whole. Towards the
coast there was less haze than usual, for I could distinguish Lady Julia
Percy’s Isle which I had looked for in vain from Mount Napier, a point
twenty-four miles nearer to it. Here I could also trace the course of the
stream we had crossed that morning from its sources under the eastern
base of the mountains to a group of lower hills twenty-seven miles
distant to the westward; which hills, named by me Dundas group, formed a
most useful point in my trigonometrical survey.

LAKES.

Several extensive lakes appeared in the lowest parts adjacent; but what
interested me most after I had intersected the various summits was the
appearance of the country to the eastward, through which we were to find
our way home. There I saw a vast extent of open downs and could trace
their undulations to where they joined a range of mountains which,
judging by their outlines, appeared to be of easy access. Our straightest
way homewards passed just under a bluff head about fifty miles distant,
and so far I could easily perceive a most favourable line of route by
avoiding several large reedy lakes. Between that open country and these
lakes on one side and the coast on the other, a low woody ridge extended
eastward; and by first gaining that I hoped we should reach the open
ground in a direction which should enable us to leave all the lakes on
our left.

The largest pieces of water I could see were Lake Linlithgow and its
companion in the open grassy plains between the range and Mount Napier,
as previously discovered from that hill. Several small and very
picturesque lakes, then as smooth as mirrors, adorned the valley
immediately to the westward of the hill I was upon. They were fringed
with luxuriant shrubs so that it was really painful to me to hurry, as I
was then compelled to do, past spots like these, involving in their
unexplored recesses so much of novelty amidst the most romantic scenery.

The rock consisted of a finely-grained sandstone as in other parts of
that mass. The Grampians of the south consist of three ranges covering a
surface which extends latitudinally 54 miles and longitudinally 20 miles.

The extreme eastern and highest summit is Mount William, in height 4,500
feet above the sea. The northern point is Mount Zero, in latitude 36
degrees 52 minutes 35 seconds South, and the southern is Mount Sturgeon,
in latitude 37 degrees 38 minutes 00 seconds. I here again recognised the
outline of the most northern and elevated range extending from Mount
William to Mount Zero, but it was not so steep on the southern as on the
northern side.

VICTORIA RANGE AND THE SERRA.
From this hill two other ranges branch off to the south; the western
being marked Victoria range on the map, the eastern, the Serra, from its
serrated appearance, the broken outlines they present being highly
ornamental to the fine country around. On the northern slopes of the

range are some forests of fine timber but in general the higher summits

are bare and rocky. The chief source of the Glenelg is between the

Victoria range and the most northern, whence it soon sinks into a deep

glen or ravine, receiving numberless tributaries from other dells

intersecting the adjacent country. A considerable branch of the Glenelg

named by the natives the Wannon has its sources in the eastern and

southern rivulets from these mountains. The waters falling northward

enter the Wimmera, a different river whose estuary has not yet been

explored. Returning towards the camp, on approaching the stream, we met

with one of the most strikingly beautiful species of the common genus

Pultenaea; its narrow heath-like leaves were so closely covered with soft

silky hairs as to have quite a silvery appearance and the branches were

loaded with the heads of yellow and brown flowers now fully open. It

formed a new species of the Proliferous section, allied to Pultenaea

stipularis.*

(*Footnote. P. mollis, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis villosis, foliis

linearibus v. lineari-lanceolatis obtusis v. acuminatis subtus convexis

supra sulcatis sericeo-pilosis capitulis sessilibus longioribus, stipulis

ovato-linearibus acutis glabris badiis, calycibus villosis.)

PARTY IMPEDED BY THE MUD AGAIN, AND A BROKEN AXLE.

September 15.

Pursuing an easterly course in order to avoid the Wannon we again found

the ground so soft and boggy that it was impossible to proceed; and after

advancing with incredible labour (under which one of the poor bullocks

fell to rise no more) barely four miles, I ordered the tents to be again

set up, but almost in despair for having performed during the previous

days several good journeys with perfect freedom from this species of

impediment, and having seen no indication of any change in the surface, I

had assured the men on descending from the mountains that the country

before us was favourable. We were nevertheless compelled to halt again at

this part by the breaking of the iron axle of one of the carts, for it

was necessary to endeavour to repair it before we could proceed. The

highest part of the woody ridge between us and the plains bore according

to my map due east, being distant 14 miles.

MR. STAPYLTON EXAMINES THE COUNTRY BEFORE US.

I gave that bearing to Mr. Stapylton who rode forward with Burnett to

ascertain how far we were from firmer ground, while I continued in my

tent occupied with the map of the mountains. It was dark before Mr.

Stapylton returned and brought the pleasing tidings that the soft ground

extended only to three or four miles from the camp, and that from beyond

that distance to the forest hills he had found the ground tolerably firm.

September 16.

The country which proved so soft was nevertheless stony and trap-rock

projected from every higher portion; yet such rocky eminences being

unconnected each was surrounded by softer ground. I was resolved to make

the very most of them: but an iron axle having been broken in our

struggles with the mud, the smith required more time to repair it, and I

therefore determined to proceed with but half the equipment drawn by ALL

the bullocks, leaving Burnett and the remaining portion of the party and

equipment to come on next day by the same means, as soon as the cattle

could be sent back.

AT LENGTH GET THROUGH THE SOFT REGION.

Having previously examined the ground and carefully traced out the

hardest parts connecting these rocky features, I led the way with the

carts and got through the first part of the journey much better than any

of us had expected. After passing over four miles of soft boggy ground we

came to a small running stream, the surface beyond it rising to a

somewhat steep ascent. On reaching that side I found myself on a good

firm ridge along which I continued for some time until we reached a

swampy lagoon, the banks of which were very firm and good. Leaving this

on our right we at length saw the darkly wooded hills of the ridge before

mentioned; and having travelled eleven miles we encamped near a small

lagoon on a spot where there was excellent grass; but it was still

necessary to send back the poor cattle with their drivers that evening to

where the other party still remained encamped.

CATTLE QUITE EXHAUSTED.

September 17.

This day the rest of the party came up but the cattle seemed quite

exhausted. They had at length become so weak from the continued heavy

dragging through mud that it was obvious they could not proceed much

further until after they had enjoyed at least some weeks of repose. But

our provisions did not admit of this delay as the time had arrived when I

ought to have been at Sydney although still so far from it.

DETERMINE TO LEAVE THEM IN A DEPOT TO REFRESH WHILE I PROCEED FORWARD.

After mature deliberation we hit upon a plan which might as I thought

enable us to escape. The arrangement proposed was that I should go

forward with some of the freshest of the cattle drawing the light carts

and boat, with a month’s provisions, and taking with me as many men as

would enable me to leave with those who should remain provisions for two

months. That the cattle should rest at the present camp two weeks and

then proceed while I, by travelling so far before them with so light a

party, could send back a supply of provisions and also the boat, to meet

this second party following in my track on the banks of the Murray. Thus

I could reach Sydney some weeks sooner, and also carry on my survey much

more conveniently; the cattle, which had been sinking almost daily, would

be thus refreshed sufficiently to be able to travel and the chance of the

whole party suffering from famine would be much diminished. Such was the

outline of the plan which our position and necessities suggested.

September 18.

This day was passed in making preparations for setting out tomorrow with

the light party as proposed.

SPECIMENS OF NATURAL HISTORY.

The catalogue of the objects of Natural History collected during the

journey included several birds and animals not hitherto mentioned in this

Journal. Amongst the most remarkable of these was the pig-footed animal

found on June 16. It measured about ten inches in length, had no tail,

and the forefeet resembled those of a pig. There was also the rat which

climbs trees like the opossum; the flat-tailed rat from the scrubs of the

Darling, where it builds an enormous nest of branches and boughs, so

interlaced as to be proof against any attacks of the native dog. The

unique specimen from the reedy country on the Murray of a very singular

animal much resembling the jerboa or desert rat of Persia; also a

rat-eared bat from the Lachlan. We had several new birds, but the most

admired of our ornithological discoveries was a white-winged superb

warbler from the junction of the Darling and the Murray, all the plumage

not white being of a bright blue colour; but of this we had obtained only

one specimen. I had not many opportunities of figuring the birds from

life, so very desirable in ornithological subjects. The eye of the eagle

and the rich crest of the cockatoo of the desert could not be preserved

in dead specimens, and were too fine to be omitted among the sketches I

endeavoured to snatch from nature.* Our herbarium had suffered from the

continued wet weather, especially in fording deep rivers; and this was

the more to be regretted as it contained many remarkable specimens. The

seeds and bulbous roots comprising varieties of Calostemma, Caladenia,

and Anguillaria, besides a number of large liliaceous bulbs, were however

preserved in a very good state.**

(*Footnote. See Plates 23 and 36.)

(**Footnote. The specimens of natural history were deposited in the

Museum at Sydney, according to my letter of instructions. The seeds,

amounting to 134 varieties, have been brought home and distributed, with

the obliging assistance of my friend Dr. Lindley, amongst the principal

gardens in this country. The bulbs, 62 in number, were planted soon after

my arrival in England, in the gardens of the Horticultural Society at

Chiswick. It was not without regret that I left at Sydney the single

specimens of the Chaeropus and Dipus, but I took drawings representing

each, of the natural size, and from these the figures in Plates 37 and 38

have been very accurately reduced by Mr. Picken.)

SITUATION OF DEPOT CAMP AT LAKE REPOSE.

The camp in which Mr. Stapylton’s party was to remain two weeks was in as

favourable a place for refreshing the cattle as could be found. The

ground undulated and was thickly clothed with fresh verdure; a grassy

swamp also, such as cattle delight in, extended northward into a lake of

fresh water which I named Lake Repose. The peaks of the Serra Range and

especially Mount Abrupt were landmarks which secured the men from even

the possibility of losing their way in looking after the cattle.

Of the natives in our party it was arranged among themselves that Tommy

Came-first and The Widow, who most required a rest, having sore feet,

should remain with Mr. Stapylton and that Piper and Tommy Came-last

should accompany me.

PARTING OF THE WIDOW AND HER CHILD.

September 19.

When about to set out I observed that The Widow Turandurey, who was to

remain with Mr. Stapylton’s party and the carts, was marked with white

round the eyes (the natives’ fashion of mourning) and that the face of

her child Ballandella was whitened also. This poor woman who had

cheerfully carried the child on her back when we offered to carry both on

the carts, and who was as careful and affectionate as any mother could

be, had at length determined to entrust to me the care of this infant. I

was gratified with such a proof of the mother’s confidence in us, but I

should have been less willing to take charge of her child had I not been

aware of the wretched state of slavery to which the natives females are

doomed. I felt additional interest in this poor child from the

circumstance of her having suffered so much by the accident that befel

her while with our party, and which had not prevented her from now

preferring our mode of living so much that I believe the mother at length

despaired of being ever able to initiate her thoroughly in the mysteries

of killing and eating snakes, lizards, rats, and similar food. The widow

had been long enough with us to be sensible how much more her sex was

respected by civilised men than savages, and, as I conceived, it was with

such sentiments that she committed her child to my charge, under the

immediate care however of Piper’s gin.

WE AT LENGTH EMERGE ON MUCH FIRMER GROUND.

For several miles we met with soft ground at the low connecting parts of

hills, but we at length gained the woody ridge so likely, as I had hoped,

to favour our progress. Its turnings were intricate but, by one or two

rivulets falling to my left and then by others falling to the right, I

learnt how to keep on the intermediate ground until at length, after a

journey of nine miles, we emerged from the woods on a firm open surface

and an extensive prospect was seen before us. Leaving the party to encamp

I rode to a round forest hill some miles to the eastward and obtained a

comprehensive view of the Grampians, and also of the country to the

northward which now appeared to be chiefly open; and I had little doubt

that we should find it more favourable for travelling upon. Eastward of

the forest hill the ground sank into a deep valley which turned round to

the south-east after receiving the drainage from some hollows in the open

country north of it.

RIVER HOPKINS.

This ravine received also the waters from the woody ridge now south of

us, where the numerous deep valleys were irrigated by streams arising in

swamps; the whole probably forming the head of some more important stream

flowing to the coast and which I here named the river Hopkins. This

eminence, which I distinguished as Mount Stavely, consisted apparently of

decomposed clay-stone or felspar, having a tendency to divide naturally

into regular prisms. A very beautiful and singular-looking shrub appeared

on the hills we crossed this day, and also on the open ground where

indeed it was most abundant. It was a species of acacia, the leaves

adhering edgeways to thorny branches; many of these shrubs were in

blossom, the flowers being yellow and as large and round as marbles, and

those growing very thickly, they gave to the branches the appearance of

garlands or festoons, the effect altogether being extremely graceful and

singular. We found also a beautiful new species of acacia looking like a

broad-leaved variety of A. armata. The branches were singularly protected

by short spiny forks which proved to be the hardened permanent stipules.*

(*Footnote. A. furcifera, Lindley manuscripts; stipulis spinescentibus

persistentibus, phyllodiis obliquis ovato-oblongis mucronatis uninerviis

hinc venosis glabris, ramis hirsutis, capitulis solitariis foliis

brevioribus.)

With this occurred another species with hard stiff scymetar-shaped leaves

and a profusion of balls of browner yellow flowers which had been

previously observed (on June 22) in a more vigorous condition.* By

observations from this hill I made the height of Mount William about

4,500 feet above the sea.

(*Footnote. This was most nearly related to A. hispidula, but the leaves

were quite smooth and much smaller. A. acinacea, Lindley manuscripts;

glaberrima; ramulis alato-angulatis rigidis, phyllodiis brevibus

acinaciformibus mucronatis 1-nerviis et enerviis: margine superiore infra

medium glanduloso, capitulis geminis axillaribus, pedunculis phyllodiorum

longitudine.)

September 20.

Our wheels now rolled lightly over fine grassy downs and our faces were

turned towards distant home. Before us arose a low, thinly-wooded hill,

which at first bounded our view towards the north, and afterwards proved

to be the feature connecting the low woody ridge near our last camp with

the hills still further to the northward. On reaching the summit I

perceived that a considerable extent of open country intervened, being

watered in the lower parts by several lakes.

MOUNT NICHOLSON. COCKAJEMMY SALT LAKES.

Descending northward along an offset of the same hills which had led us

in that direction and which I now named Mount Nicholson, I observed that

the lakes occurred at intervals in a valley apparently falling from the

westward in which no stream appeared, although it was shut in by well

escarped rocky banks. We encamped after a journey of ten miles at a point

where another valley from the north joined the above, and I was somewhat

surprised to find after encamping that the water in the adjacent lakes

was extremely salt. No connection existed by means of any channel between

them although they formed together a chain of lagoons in the bed of a

deep and well defined valley. On the contrary the soil was particularly

solid and firm between them, and the margin of the most eastern of these

lakes was separated by a high bank from the bed of another valley where a

running stream of pure water flowed over a broad and swampy bed fifteen

feet higher than the adjacent valley containing the stagnant salt lakes.

The rock enclosing these singular valleys was basalt, and from these

peculiarities, considered with reference to the ancient volcano and the

dip of a mountain strata to the north-west, it was evident that some

upheaving or subsidence had materially altered the levels of the original

surface.

I could find no brine-springs in or about these lakes, and as it was

evident that a stream had once washed the bed of the ravine now occupied

by them, I may leave the solution of the problem to geologists.

(*Footnote. Having submitted specimens of the water from these and other

salt lakes of the interior to my friend Professor Faraday, I have been

favoured with the following particulars respecting their contents: “All

of them are solutions of common salt much surpassing the ocean or even

the Mediterranean in the quantity of salt dissolved. Besides the common

salt there are present (in comparatively small quantity) portions of

sulphates and muriates of lime and magnesia: the waters are neutral and

except in strength very much resemble those of the ocean. That labelled

Greenhill Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1049.4 and three

measured ounces gave on evaporation 97 grains of dry salts. That labelled

Mitre Lake 24th July had a specific gravity of 1038.6, and three measured

ounces of it yielded 77 grains of dry saline matter. The water labelled

Cockajemmy Lake Camp 20th September had a specific gravity of 1055.3 and

the amount of dry salts from three measured ounces was 113 grains.”)

NATIVES ILL DISPOSED.

As we proceeded over the open ground before we reached the spot where we

finally encamped several natives appeared at a great distance in a valley

eastward of Mount Nicholson, and Piper went towards them supported by

Brown whom I sent after him on horseback. They proved to be three or four

gins only, but Piper continued to pursue them to the top of a hill, when

a number of men armed with spears suddenly started from behind trees and

were running furiously towards Piper when Brown rode up. On presenting

his pistol they came to a full stop, thereby showing that they had some

idea of firearms, although they refused to answer Piper’s questions or to

remain longer. In the evening, four of them approaching our camp, Piper

went forward with Burnett to meet them. They advanced to the tents

apparently without fear, and I obtained from them the names of various

localities. On being questioned respecting Cadong, they told us that all

these waters ran into it, and pointed to the south-east, saying that I

should by-and-bye see it. When I found we could obtain no more

information I presented the most intelligent of them with a tomahawk, on

which they went slowly away, repeatedly turning round towards us and

saying something which, according to Piper, had reference to their tribe

coming again and dancing a corrobory, a proposal these savage tribes

often make and which the traveller who knows them well will think it

better to discourage.

SINGULAR WEAPON.

These men carried a singular kind of malga, of a construction different

from any Piper had ever seen. The malga is a weapon usually made in the

form of Figure 2, but that with which these natives were provided

somewhat resembled a pick-axe with one half broken off, and was of the

form of Figure 1, being made so as to be thickest at the angle. The blow

of such a formidable weapon could not be easily parried from the

uncertainty whether it would be aimed with the thick heavy corner or the

sharp point. All the weapons of this singular race are peculiar and this

one was not the least remarkable.

TREACHEROUS CONCEALMENT OF A NATIVE.

At dusk while Woods was looking after the cattle near the camp he

surprised a native concealed behind a small bush, who did not make his

escape until Woods was within two yards of him.

CONTENTS OF A NATIVE’S BASKET AND STORE.

How many more had been about we could not ascertain, but next morning we

found near the spot one of the bags usually carried by gins and

containing the following samples of their daily food: three snakes; three

rats; about 2 pounds of small fish, like white bait; crayfish; and a

quantity of the small root of the cichoraceous plant tao, usually found

growing on the plains with a bright yellow flower. There were also in the

bag various bodkins and colouring stones, and two mogos or stone hatchets

(Figure 5). It seemed that our civility had as usual inspired these

savages with a desire to beat our brains out while asleep, and we were

thankful that in effecting their cowardly designs they had been once more

unsuccessful.

A TRIBE COMES FORWARD.

September 21.

Early in the morning a tribe of about forty were seen advancing toward

our camp preceded by the four men who had been previously there. Having

determined that they should not approach us again, I made Piper advance

to them and inquire what they wanted last night behind the bush, pointing

at the same time to the spot. They returned no answer to this question,

but continued to come forward until I ordered a burning bush to be waved

at them and, when they came to a stand without answering Piper’s

question, I ordered a party of our men to charge them, whereupon they all

scampered off. We saw them upon our encamping ground after we had

proceeded about two miles, but they did not attempt to follow us. Whether

they would find a letter which I had buried there for Mr. Stapylton or

not, we could only hope to discover after that gentleman’s return to the

colony. It was understood between us that, where a cross was cut in the

turf where my tent had stood, he would find a note under the centre of

the cross. This I buried by merely pushing a stick into the earth and

dropping into the hole thus made the note twisted up like a cigar. The

letter was written chiefly to caution him about these natives. Basalt

appeared in the sides of the ravine which contained the salt lakes and in

equal abundance and of the same quality in that which enclosed the living

stream where it lay in blocks forming small cliffs. Finding at length a

favourable place for crossing this stream, we traversed the ravine and

resumed our direct course towards the southern extremity of a distant

range named Mammala by the natives, the bluff head previously seen from

Mount Abrupt (see above).

FINE COUNTRY FOR COLONISATION.

We now travelled over a country quite open, slightly undulating, and well

covered with grass. To the westward the noble outline of the Grampians

terminated a view extending over vast plains fringed with forests and

embellished with lakes. To the northward appeared other more

accessible-looking hills, some being slightly wooded, some green and

quite clear to their summits, long grassy vales and ridges intervening:

while to the eastward the open plain extended as far as the eye could

reach. Our way lay between distant ranges which in that direction mingled

with the clouds. Thus I had both the low country, which was without

timber, and the well wooded hills within reach, and might choose either

for our route, according to the state of the ground, weather, etc.

Certainly a land more favourable for colonisation could not be found.

Flocks might be turned out upon its hills, or the plough at once set to

work in the plains. No primeval forests required to be first rooted out,

although there was enough of wood for all purposes of utility and as much

also for embellishment as even a painter could wish.

HOLLOWS IN THE DOWNS.

One feature peculiar to that country appeared on these open downs: it

consisted of hollows which, being usually surrounded by a line of yarra

gumtrees or whitebark eucalyptus, seemed at a distance to contain lakes,

but instead of water I found only blocks of vesicular trap, consisting

apparently of granular felspar, and hornblende rock also appeared in the

banks enclosing them. Some of these hollows were of a winding character,

as if they were the remains of ancient watercourses; but if ever currents

flowed there the surface must have undergone considerable alteration

since, for the downs where these hollows appeared were elevated at least

900 feet above the sea and surrounded on all sides by lower ground. There

was an appearance of moisture among the rocks in some of these

depressions; and whether by digging a few feet permanent wells might be

made may be a question worth attention when colonisation extends to that

country. We found on other parts of this open ground large blocks

composed of irregular concretions of ironstone, covered with a thin

coating of compact brown haematite. The purple-ringed Anguillaria dioica,

first seen on Pyramid Hill, again appeared here; and in many places the

ground was quite yellow with the flowers of the cichoraceous plant tao

whose root, small as it is, constitutes the food of the native women and

children. The cattle are very fond of the leaves of this plant and seemed

to thrive upon it. We also found a new bulbine with a delicate yellow

flower being perfectly distinct from both the species described by

Brown.*

(*Footnote. This has been planted with the others in the Horticultural

Gardens at Chiswick and was the first to flower there, a head having been

sent to me on the 8th May last by Dr. Lindley who describes it thus:

Bulbine suavis; radice fasciculata, foliis longissimis attenuatis

semiteretibus basi canaliculatis glaucis, racemo erecto multifloro,

petalis oblongis subundulatis sepalis duplo latioribus, staminibus

ascendentibus, filamentis apice stuposis petalinis patentibus sepalinis

erectis apice incurvis brevioribus.)

SNAKES NUMEROUS.

The genial warmth of spring had begun to show its influence on these

plants and also brought the snakes from their holes, for on this day in

particular it was ascertained that twenty-two had been killed by the

party. These were all of that species not venomous I believe which the

natives eat. We encamped near a small clump of trees for the sake of

firewood.

September 22.

This day’s journey lay chiefly across open downs with wooded hills

occasionally to the left. On the southward these downs extended to the

horizon: and several isolated hills at great distances, apparently of

trap, presented an outline like the volcanic Mount Napier. All the

various small rivulets we traversed in our line of route seemed to flow

in that direction. Having crossed three of these we encamped on the right

bank of the fourth. The hills on our left were of granite and as

different as possible in appearance from the mountains to the westward

which were all of red sandstone. In the afternoon there was a

thunderstorm but the sky became again perfectly serene in the evening.

September 23.

This morning a thick fog hung over us; but having well reconnoitred the

country beyond I knew that I might travel in a straight line over open

ground for several miles. When the fog arose some finely wooded hills

appeared on our right; but after advancing seven miles on good firm earth

we again came upon very soft ground which obliged us to turn and wind and

pick our way wherever the surface seemed most likely to bear us.

NATIVE FEMALES.

The fog was succeeded by a fine warm day, and as we proceeded we saw two

gins and their children at work separately on a swampy meadow; and, quick

as the sight of these natives is, we had travelled long within view

before they observed us. They were spread over the field much in the

manner in which emus and kangaroos feed on plains, and we observed them

digging in the ground for roots. All carried bags and when Piper went

towards them they ran with great speed across the vast open plains to the

southward.

CATTLE TRACKS.

This day we perceived the fresh track of several bullocks, a very

extraordinary circumstance in that situation. The beautiful

yellow-wreathed acacia was not to be seen after we quitted the open

country. The ground was becoming almost hopelessly soft, when we reached

a small run of water from the hills and, by keeping along its bank, we

had the good fortune to reach an extremity of the range where the solid

granite was as welcome to our feet as a dry beach is to shipwrecked

seamen.

ASCEND MOUNT COLE.

We had at length arrived under Mammala, the bluff hill which had been my

landmark from the time I left Mr. Stapylton. I found this was the

southern extremity of a lofty range which I lost no time in ascending

after I had fixed on a spot for the camp. It consisted of huge blocks of

granite,* and was crowned with such lofty timber that I could only catch

occasional peeps of the surrounding country: nevertheless I obtained, by

moving about among the trees with my pocket sextant, almost all the

angles I wanted; and I thus connected the survey of the region I was

leaving with that I was about to enter. My first view over this eastern

country was extensive, and when I at length descended to a projecting

rock I found the prospect extremely promising, the land being variegated

with open plains and strips of forest, and studded with smooth green

hills of the most beautiful forms. In the extreme distance a range much

resembling that on which I stood declined at its southern extremity in

the same manner as this did, and thus left me a passage precisely in the

most direct line of route homewards.

(*Footnote. Consisting of pink felspar, white quartz and silvery mica.)

ENTER ON A GRANITE COUNTRY.

The carts had still however to cross the range at which we had arrived

and which, as I perceived here, not only extended southward but also

broke into bold ravines on the eastern side, being connected with some

noble hills, or rather mountains, all grassy to their summits, thinly

wooded and consisting wholly of granite. They resembled very much some

hills of the lower Pyrenees in Spain, only that they were more grassy and

less acclivitous, and I named this hill Mount Cole. To the southward the

sea-haze dimmed the horizon: but I perceived the eastern margin of a

large piece of water bearing south-south-east, and which I supposed might

be Cadong. It was sheltered on the south-east by elevated ground

apparently very distant, but no high range appeared between us and that

inlet of the sea. On the contrary the heights extending southward from

this summit, being connected with the highest and most southern hills

visible from it, seemed to be the only high land or separation of the

waters falling north and south. With such a country before us I bade

adieu to swamps and returned well pleased to the camp, being guided to it

only by the gushing torrent, for I had remained on the hill as long as

daylight lasted.

On reaching the seashore at this beach I turned to observe the face of
Tommy Came-last, one of my followers who, being a native from the
interior, had never before seen the sea. I could not discover in the face
of this young savage, even on his first view of the ocean, any expression
of surprise; on the contrary the placid and comprehensive gaze he cast
over it seemed fully to embrace the grand expanse then for the first time
opened to him.

A VESSEL AT ANCHOR. HOUSE AND FARMING ESTABLISHMENT THERE.
I was much more astonished when he soon after came to tell me of the
fresh tracks of cattle that he had found on the shore, and the shoemarks
of a white man. He also brought me portions of tobacco-pipes and a glass
bottle without a neck. That whaling vessels occasionally touched there I
was aware, as was indeed obvious from the carcasses and bones of whales
on the beach; but how cattle could have been brought there I did not
understand. Proceeding round the bay with the intention of examining the
head of an inlet and continuing along shore as far as Cape Bridgewater, I
was struck with the resemblance to houses that some supposed grey rocks
under the grassy cliffs presented; and while I directed my glass towards
them my servant Brown said he saw a brig at anchor; a fact of which I was
soon convinced and also that the grey rocks were in reality wooden
houses. The most northern part of the shore of this bay was comparatively
low, but the western consisted of bold cliffs rising to the height of 180
feet.

We ascended these cliffs near the wooden houses which proved to be some
deserted sheds of the whalers. One shot was heard as we drew near them
and another on our ascending the rocks. I then became somewhat
apprehensive that the parties might either be, or suppose us to be,
bushrangers and, to prevent if possible some such awkward mistake, I
ordered a man to fire a gun and the bugle to be sounded; but on reaching
the higher ground we discovered not only a beaten path but the track of
two carts, and while we were following the latter a man came towards us
from the face of the cliffs. He informed me in answer to my questions
that the vessel at anchor was the Elizabeth of Launceston; and that just
round the point there was a considerable farming establishment belonging
to Messrs. Henty, who were then at the house. It then occurred to me that
I might there procure a small additional supply of provisions, especially
of flour, as my men were on very reduced rations. I therefore approached
the house and was kindly received and entertained by the Messrs. Henty
who as I learnt had been established there during upwards of two years.

It was very obvious indeed from the magnitude and extent of the buildings
and the substantial fencing erected that both time and labour had been
expended in their construction. A good garden stocked with abundance of
vegetables already smiled on Portland Bay; the soil was very rich on the
overhanging cliffs, and the potatoes and turnips produced there surpassed
in magnitude and quality any I had ever seen elsewhere.

WHALE FISHERY.

I learnt that the bay was much resorted to by vessels engaged in the

whale fishery and that upwards of 700 tons of oil had been shipped that

season. I was likewise informed that only a few days before my arrival

five vessels lay at anchor together in that bay, and that a communication

was regularly kept up with Van Diemen’s Land by means of vessels from

Launceston. Messrs. Henty were importing sheep and cattle as fast as

vessels could be found to bring them over, and the numerous whalers

touching at or fishing on the coast were found to be good customers for

farm produce and whatever else could be spared from the establishment.

Portland Bay is well sheltered from all winds except the east-south-east,

and the anchorage is so good that a vessel is said to have rode out a

gale even from this quarter. The part of the western shore where the land

is highest shelters a small bay which might be made a tolerable harbour

by means of two piers or quays erected on reefs of a kind of rock

apparently very favourable for the purpose, namely amygdaloidal trap in

rounded boulders. The present anchorage in four fathoms is on the outside

of these reefs, and the water in this little bay is in general smooth

enough for the landing of boats. A fine stream falls into the bay there

and the situation seems altogether a most eligible one for the site of a

town. The rock is trap consisting principally of felspar; and the soil is

excellent as was amply testified by the luxuriant vegetation in Mr.

Henty’s garden.

EXCURSION TO CAPE NELSON.

August 30.

I proceeded with the theodolite to a height near Cape Nelson and from it

I intersected that cape and also Cape Bridgewater, Cape Sir William

Grant, the islands to the eastward, etc.

MOUNT KINCAID.

I here recognised also the high hill which appeared within these capes

when first seen from the westward. It formed the most elevated part of

the Rifle range at its termination on the coast and I was informed by Mr.

Henty that there was a fine lake at its base. I named the hill Mount

Kincaid after my old and esteemed friend of Peninsular recollections.

Returning to the party at Portland Bay where I had left my sextant, I

then obtained a good observation on the sun’s meridian altitude. I was

accommodated with a small supply of flour by Messrs. Henty who, having

been themselves on short allowance, were awaiting the arrival of a vessel

then due two weeks. They also supplied us with as many vegetables as the

men could carry away on their horses.

A WHALE CHASE.

Just as I was about to leave the place a whale was announced and

instantly three boats well manned were seen cutting through the water, a

harpooneer standing up at the stern of each with oar in hand and

assisting the rowers by a forward movement at each stroke. It was not the

least interesting scene in these my Australian travels thus to witness

from a verandah on a beautiful afternoon at Portland Bay the humours of

the whale fishery and all those wondrous perils of harpooneers and whale

boats of which I had delighted to read as scenes of the stormy north. The

object of the present pursuit was “a hunchback” and it being likely to

occupy the boats for some time I proceeded homewards.

SAGACITY OF THE NATIVES ON THE COAST.

I understood it frequently happened that several parties of fishermen

left by different whaling vessels would engage in the pursuit of the same

whale, and that in the struggle for possession the whale would

occasionally escape from them all and run ashore, in which case it is of

little value to whalers as the removal, etc., would be too tedious and

they in such cases carry away part of the head matter only. The natives

never approach these whalers, nor had they ever shown themselves to the

white people of Portland Bay but, as they have taken to eat the castaway

whales, it is their custom to send up a column of smoke when a whale

appears in the bay, and the fishers understand the signal. This affords

an instance of the sagacity of the natives for they must have reflected

that, by thus giving timely notice, a greater number will become

competitors for the whale and that consequently there will be a better

chance of the whale running ashore, in which case a share must fall

finally to them. The fishers whom I saw were fine able fellows; and with

their large ships and courageous struggles with the whales they must seem

terrible men of the sea to the natives. The neat trim of their boats set

up on stanchions on the beach looked well, with oars and in perfect

readiness to dash at the moment’s notice into the angry surge. Upon the

whole, what with the perils they undergo and their incessant labour in

boiling the oil, these men do not earn too cheaply the profits derived

from that kind of speculation. I saw on the shore the wreck of a fine

boat which had been cut in two by a single stroke of the tail of a whale.

The men were about to cast their net into the sea to procure a supply of

fish for us when the whale suddenly engaged all hands.

We returned along the shore of the bay, intersecting at its estuary the

mouth of the little river last crossed and which, at the request of Mr.

Henty, I have named the Surry. This river enters Portland Bay in latitude

38 degrees 15 minutes 43 seconds South; longitude (by my survey)141

degrees 58 minutes East. We encamped on the rich grassy land just beyond

and I occupied for the night a snug old hut of the natives.

August 31.

Early this morning Richardson caught a fine bream and I had indeed been

informed by Messrs. Henty that these streams abound with this fish.

MOUNT CLAY.

On ascending the highest point of the hill immediately behind the estuary

of the Surry and which I named Mount Clay, I found it consisted of good

forest land, and that its ramifications extended over as much as three

miles. Beyond it we descended into the valley of the Fitzroy, and at noon

I ascertained the latitude where we had before forded it to be 38 degrees

8 minutes 51 seconds South. The river had risen in the interim a foot and

a half, so that we were obliged to carry the flour across on the heads of

the men wading up to the neck. When we reached the summit of Mount

Eckersley, the horizon being clear, I completed my series of angles on

points visible from that station by observing the Julian Island and Mount

Abrupt, two of great importance in my survey which were hidden from our

sight by the squally weather when I was last on this hill.

RETURN TO THE CAMP.

We reached the camp about sunset and found all right there, the carts

having been drawn out of the bogs, all the claw-chains repaired by the

blacksmith, our hatchets resteeled, and two new shafts made for the heavy

carts. Piper had during our absence killed abundance of kangaroos, and I

now rejoiced at his success on account of the aboriginal portion of our

party for whose stomachs, being of savage capacity, quantity was a more

important consideration than quality in the article of food, and we were

then living on a very reduced scale of rations. On my return from such

excursions The Widow and her child frequently gave notice of our approach

long before we reached the camp: their quick ears seemed sensible of the

sound of horses’ feet at an astonishing distance, for in no other way

could the men account for the notice which Turandurey and her child,

seated at their own fire, were always the first to give of my return,

sometimes long before our appearance at the camp. Piper was usually the

first to meet me and assure me of the safety of the party, as if he had

taken care of it during my absence; and I encouraged his sense of

responsibility by giving him credit for the security they had enjoyed. A

serene evening, lovely in itself, looked doubly beautiful then as our

hopes of getting home were inseparable from fine weather, for on this

chance our final escape from the mud and bogs seemed very much to depend.

The barometer however indicated rather doubtfully.

September 1.

Heavy rain and fog detained us in the same camp this morning and I

availed myself of the day for the purpose of laying down my recent

survey. The results satisfied me that the coastline on the engraved map

was very defective and indeed the indentations extended so much deeper

into the land that I still entertained hopes of finding some important

inlet to the eastward, analogous to that remarkable break of the mountain

chain at Mount William.

STILL RETARDED BY THE SOFT SOIL.

September 2.

We travelled as much in a north-east direction as the ground permitted

but, although I should most willingly have followed the connecting

features whatever their directions, I could not avoid the passage of

various swamps or boggy soft hollows in which the carts and more

especially the boat-carriage, notwithstanding the greatest exertions on

the part of the men, again sank up to the axles. I had proceeded with the

light carts and one heavy cart nearly nine miles while the boat-carriage

fell at least six miles behind me, the other heavy carts having also been

retarded from the necessity for yoking additional teams to the cattle

drawing the boats. The weather was still unsettled and the continued

rains had at length made the surface so soft that even to ride over it

was in many places difficult. I had reached some fine forest land on the

bank of a running stream where the features were bolder, and I hoped to

arrive soon at the good country near the head of the Wannon. I encamped

without much hope that the remainder of the party could join us that

night and they in fact did remain six miles behind. I had never been more

puzzled in my travels than I was with respect to the nature of the

country before us then. Mount Napier bore 74 degrees East of North

distant about 16 miles. The little rivulet was flowing northward, and yet

we had not reached the interior side of that elevated though swampy

ground dividing the fine valleys we had seen further westward from the

country sloping towards the sea.

LEAVE ONE OF THE BOATS, AND REDUCE THE SIZE OF THE BOAT CARRIAGE.

September 3.

This morning we had steady rain accompanied as usual by a north-west

wind; I remarked also that at any rise of the barometer after such rain

the wind changed to the south-east in situations near the coast, or to

the north-east when we were more inland. I sent back the cattle we had

brought forward to this camp to assist those behind, and in the meanwhile

Mr. Stapylton took a ride along the ridge on which we were encamped in

order to ascertain its direction. Towards evening Burnett returned from

the carts with the intelligence that the boat-carriage could not be got

out of the swamps and that, after the men had succeeded in raising it

with levers and had drawn it some way, it had again sunk and thus delayed

the carts, but that the latter were at length coming on, two men having

been left behind with the boat-carriage. Mr. Stapylton returned in the

afternoon having ascertained that a swamp of upwards of a mile in breadth

and extending north and south as far as he could see lay straight before

us, and he had concluded that the rivulet upon which we were then

encamped turned into it. Under such circumstances we could not hope to be

able to travel much further with the boats, nor even indeed with the

carts unless we found ground with a firmer surface in the country before

us. Ere we could reach the nearest habitations of civilised men we had

yet to traverse 400 miles of a country intersected by the highest

mountains and watered by the largest rivers known in New Holland.

September 4.

Although the boats and their carriage had been of late a great hindrance

to us I was very unwilling to abandon such useful appendages to an

exploring party, having already drawn them overland nearly 3000 miles. A

promising part of the coast might still be explored, large rivers were to

be crossed, and we had already found boats useful on such occasions. One

however might answer these temporary purposes, since for the main object,

the exploration of inland seas, they could not possibly be wanted. We had

two and the outer one, which was both larger and heavier than the inner,

had been shaken so much when suspended without the thwarts that she was

almost unserviceable in the water, and very leaky as we had lately found

in exploring the Glenelg. She had in fact all along served as a case for

the inner boat, which could thus be kept distended by the thwarts and was

consequently in excellent repair and in every respect the best. I

determined therefore to abandon the outer boat and shorten the carriage

so that the fore and hind wheels would be brought two feet nearer each

other. I expected from this arrangement that, instead of boats retarding

the party, this one might thus be drawn in advance with the light carts.

EXCURSION TO MOUNT NAPIER.

Having directed the alteration to be made during my intended absence I

set out for Mount Napier and soon found the broad swamp before me. After

riding up an arm of it to the left for a mile and a half I found it

passable and, having crossed, we proceeded towards the hill by a rather

circuitous route but over a fine tract of country although then very soft

under our horses’ feet.

CROSS SOME FINE STREAMS.

We next reached a deeper ravine where the land on each side was more open

and also firmer, while a small rivulet flowing through it amongst bushes

was easily crossed, and we ascended some fine rising ground beyond it.

Rich flats then extended before us and we arrived at an open grassy

valley where a beautiful little stream resembling a river in miniature

was flowing rapidly. Two very substantial huts showed that even the

natives had been attracted by the beauty of the spot and, as the day was

showery, I wished to return if possible to pass the night there, for I

began to learn that such huts with a good fire before them made very

comfortable quarters in bad weather.

NATIVES VERY TIMID.

We had heard voices in the woods several times this day but their

inhabitants seemed as timid as kangaroos and not more likely to come near

us. The blue mass of Mount Napier was visible occasionally through the

trees, but I found as we proceeded that we were not so near it as I had

supposed, for at three miles beyond the little stream we came upon one of

greater magnitude, a small river flowing southward with open grassy banks

in which two kinds of trap-rock appeared. The edge of a thin layer of the

lowest, a nearly decomposed trap, projected over the stream; the other

lay in rounded blocks in the face of the hill above, and appeared to be

decomposed amygdaloid, principally felspar. The river ran through a

valley where the forest land was remarkably open, being sprinkled with

only a few trees as in a park, and this stream appeared to fall into the

head of the extensive swamp already mentioned. About a mile beyond the

river (which I named the Shaw) we came upon the extremities of Mount

Napier, for at least so I considered some rough sharp-pointed fragments

of rock laying about in heaps, which we found it very difficult and

tedious to ride over: indeed so sharp-edged and large were these rocks on

the slopes of the terraces they formed that we were often obliged to

dismount and lead our horses. In these fragments I recognised the

cellular character of the rocks I had noticed in the bed of the Shaw. The

rock here might have been taken for decomposed amygdaloid but, having

found the vestiges of an old crater in the summit of the hill, I was

induced to consider it an ancient lava. The reefs at Portland Bay consist

of the same rock in rounded nodules, a more compact trap-rock consisting

principally of felspar lying above them, as was observable in the section

of the coast. In some of the fragments on Mount Napier these cells or

pores were several inches in diameter and, unlike amygdaloidal rocks, all

were quite empty. The surface consisted wholly of this stone, without any

intermediate soil to soften its asperity under the feet of our horses,

and yet it was covered with a wood of eucalyptus and mimosa, growing

there as on the open forest land between which and this stony region the

chief difference consisted in the ruggedness of surface, this being

broken as already stated into irregular terraces where loose stones lay

in irregular heaps and hollows, most resembling old stone quarries. We

travelled over three miles of this rough surface before we reached the

base of the cone.

CRATER OF MOUNT NAPIER OR MURROA.

On the sides of it we found some soft red earth mixed with fragments of

lava and on reaching the summit I found myself on the narrow edge of a

circular crater composed wholly of lava and scoriae. Trees and bushes

grew luxuriantly everywhere except where the sharp rocks shot up almost

perpendicularly. The igneous character of these was so obvious that one

of the men thrust his hand into a chasm to ascertain whether it was warm.

VIEW FROM THE SUMMIT.

The discovery of an extinct volcano gave additional interest to Mount

Napier, but it was by no means a better station for the theodolite on

that account; on the contrary it was the worst possible for, as the trees

grew on the edge of the crater, no one station could be found to afford a

view of the horizon until the whole circumference was cleared of the

trees, and this was too great a work for us at that visit. Mount William

and the Grampian range presented a noble outline to the northward. The

sun had set before I could recognise distant points in the highly

interesting country to be seen from this remarkable hill. The weather was

also unfavourable and I descended to pass the night at its base in hopes

that the next morning might be clear.

RETURN TO THE CAMP.

On reaching the spot where I had left the horses I found that our native

friend Tommy Came-last could discover no water in any of the numerous

hollows around the hill and, though the superabundance of this element

had caused the chief impediment to our progress through the country at

that time, we were obliged to pass a night most uncomfortably from the

total want of it at the base of Mount Napier. The spongy-looking rocks

were however dry enough to sleep upon, a quality of which the soil in

general had been rather deficient, as most of us felt in our muscles. I

perceived a remarkable uniformity in the size of the trees, very few of

which were dead or fallen. From this circumstance, together with the

deficiency of the soil and the sharp edge of the rock generally, some

might conclude that the volcano had been in activity at no very remote

period.

September 5.

A thick fog hung upon the mountain until half-past 10 A.M. and when I

ascended an extremity I could see nothing of the distance. I had however

ascertained the nature of the country thus far, this having been the

object of my visit and, as I had resolved from what I had seen to pass to

the northward at no great distance from this hill, I returned with less

reluctance, in hopes that I might have it in my power yet to revisit it

during more favourable weather. The day was squally with several very

heavy showers, the wind being from the south-west. We saw two natives at

a fire when we were returning, and our friend Tommy readily advanced

towards them but they immediately set up such loud and incessant cries

that I called to him to come away. After a ride of twenty-six miles

across swamps and many muddy hollows we reached soon after sunset the

camp which I had directed to be moved back to near where the boats lay. I

found that these had been drawn out of the swamp and one only brought

forward as I wished to this camp and where I found all the carts once

more ranged together. The alteration of the boat carriage required a

little more time, and I accordingly determined to halt one day that we

might also have our horses shod, several shoes having come off on the

rough rocks near Mount Napier.

MR. STAPYLTON’S EXCURSION TO THE NORTH-WEST.

September 6.

This day I requested Mr. Stapylton to examine the country in a north-west

direction. Some of the swamps crossed by me yesterday had appeared to

fall westward and I wished to ascertain the situation and character of

the ground dividing them from those discharging their waters eastward or

towards the sea, as it was only by keeping on that dividing ground that I

could hope to avoid them. Mr. Stapylton proceeded nine miles north-west,

crossing many swampy flats, and at length a small rivulet, all falling

westward. Beyond the rivulet he got upon some good hills connected with

higher land. Our best line of route homewards was in a north-east

direction, or at rightangles to the route of Mr. Stapylton.

THE SHAW.

The great swamp already mentioned, being the channel and recipient of the

Shaw, was somewhat in my way, and my object now was to trace out the

dividing ground as we proceeded, so as to avoid the swamps on both sides.

By sunset the single boat was mounted in the shortened carriage, the

whole being now so manageable and light that the boat could be lifted out

by hand without block and tackle; and when on the carriage she could be

drawn with ease wherever the light carts could pass. Thus we got rid of

that heavy clog on our progress over soft ground, the boats, by reserving

but one; and we left the larger, keel upwards, at the swamp which had

occasioned so much delay.

CONDUCT THE CARTS ALONG THE HIGHEST GROUND.

September 7.

Having chosen for a general line of route the bearing most likely to

avoid the swamps according to the knowledge I had gained of the country,

I proceeded as these and the soft ground permitted, and had the singular

and indeed unexpected good fortune to come upon my horse’s track from

Mount Napier without having even seen the large swamp. The boat-carriage

now travelled with the light carts, and we at length reached the first

running stream at a short distance below where I had previously crossed

it. The bottom was boggy and the water flowed in two channels, the ground

between them being very soft. The whole party crossed it, with the

exception of two carts which did not arrive, and we encamped on the bank

beyond after a journey of about eight miles. Near this stream we found a

pretty new species of Dillwynia, with plain yellow flowers, clustered on

a long stalk at the end of the branches, and with curiously hairy

heath-like leaves. It resembles D. peduncularis but proved, on

examination, to be distinct.*

(*Footnote. D. hispida, Lindley manuscripts; ramulis hispidulis, foliis

linearibus patulis verrucosis obtusis hispidulis, corymbis longe

pedunculatis terminalibus laxis paucifloris, pedunculo glaberrimo,

pedicellis calycibusque pubescentibus.)

At this spot we found a very small bower of twigs, only large enough to

contain a child: the floor was hollowed out and filled with dry leaves

and feathers; and the ground around had been cut smooth, several boughs

having been also bent over it so as to be fixed in the ground at both

ends. The whole seemed connected with some mystic ceremony of the

aborigines, but which the male natives who were with us could not

explain. The gins however on being questioned said it was usual to

prepare such a bower for the reception of a new-born child. Kangaroos

were more numerous in this part of the country than in any other that we

had traversed. I counted twenty-three in one flock which passed before me

as I stood silently by a tree. Two of the men counted fifty-seven in

another flock, and it was not unusual for them to approach our camp as if

from curiosity, on which occasions two or three were occasionally caught

by our dogs.

September 8.

The remainder of the heavy carts not having come up, I left the two with

us to await their arrival that the men might assist the drivers with

their teams in crossing this stream. On proceeding then with the light

carts only I crossed several soft bad places, and one or two fine small

rivulets, encamping at last where we again fell in with my horse’s track,

on an open space about eight miles from Mount Napier. During the day’s

journey we traversed some fine open forest hills near the banks of

rivulets. We generally found the south-eastern slope of such heights very

indistinct, and the ground soft, boggy and covered with banksias. The

rock in such places consisted of the same cellular trap so common on this

side of the Grampians. Our camp lay between two swamps for no better

ground appeared on any side. I hoped however to obtain a more general

knowledge of the surrounding country from Mount Napier during clear

weather, and thus to discover some way by which we might make our escape

to the northward. The carts did not overtake us this day, and I

determined when they should arrive to overhaul them and throw away every

article of weight not absolutely required for the rest of the journey.

AGAIN ASCEND MURROA AND PARTIALLY CLEAR THE SUMMIT.

September 9.

Once more I set out for Mount Napier, followed by a party of men with

axes to clear its summit, at least sufficiently for the purpose of taking

angles with the theodolite. The night had been clear and the morning was

fine, but as soon as I had ascended the hill rain-clouds gathered in the

south-west and obscured the horizon on all sides; I could only see some

points at intervals, but I took as many as I could after the men had

cleared a station for the theodolite. I perceived two very extensive

lakes in the low country between Mount Napier and the south-eastern

portion of the Grampian range, which terminated in the hill that I had

previously named Mount Abrupt. Between the largest of these waters

(called by me Lake Linlithgow) and the mountains there appeared an

extensive tract of open grassy land.

MOUNT ROUSE.

To the eastward at the distance of twelve miles I perceived a solitary

hill, somewhat resembling Mount Napier, and named it Mount Rouse; but a

haze still concealed the more distant country. On reaching the camp where

we arrived in the dark, I found that the carts had not even then

returned; but as the barometer promised better weather I did not much

regret their non-arrival as the delay would afford me another chance of

having a clear day on Mount Napier.

September 10.

I again proceeded to the hill and obtained at length a clear and

extensive view from it in all directions. In the north the Grampian

range, on all sides grand, presented a new and striking outline on this.

Far in the west I could recognise in slight breaks on a low horizon some

features of the valley of Nangeela (Glenelg).

AUSTRALIAN PYRENEES.

Eastward the summits of a range I thought of naming the Australian

Pyrenees were just visible over a woody horizon; and to the south-east

were several detached hills and some elevated ridges of forest land,

apparently near the coast. One isolated hill resembling a haystack was

very remarkable on the seashore. This I named Mount Hotspur being the

only elevation near Lady Julia Percy’s Isle (not Isles as laid down on

the charts for there is but one, now called by whalers the Julian

Island). To the southward I could just distinguish the Laurence Islands

but a haze upon the coast prevented me from seeing that of Lady Julia

Percy. Smoke arose from many parts of the lower country and showed that

the inhabitants were very generally scattered over its surface. We could

now look on such fires with indifference, so harmless were these natives

compared with those on the Darling, and the smoke now ascended in equal

abundance from the furthest verge of the horizon. It was impossible to

discover the sources of streams or the direction of any ranges visible in

the surrounding country; but upon the whole I concluded that the only

practicable route for us homewards at that time would be through the

forests and by passing as near as possible to the base of Mount Abrupt,

the south-eastern extremity of the Grampians. Several forest hills stood

above the extensive level country extending from our camp to Mount

Abrupt, but I could trace no connection between these hills, and was

rather apprehensive that a soft and swampy country intervened.

CRATER OF MOUNT NAPIER.

I had this day leisure to examine the crater on this hill more

particularly and found its breadth to be 446 feet; its average depth 80

feet. The cellular rocks and lava stood nearly perpendicular around one

portion of it; but there was a gap towards the west-north-west, on which

side the crater was open almost to its greatest depth. (See Plate 22.)

Several deep tongues of land descended from it to the west and

north-west, forming the base of the hill, and had somewhat of the

regularity of water-worn features. No marks of decomposition appeared in

the fragments projecting from the highest points, however much exposed.

On the contrary all the stringy twisted marks of fusion were as sharp and

fresh as if the lava had but recently cooled. One species of moss very

much resembled the Orchilla, and I thought it not impossible that this

valuable weed might be found here as it occurred on similar rocks at

Teneriffe. Just as I reached the highest summit this morning a

bronze-wing pigeon arose from it; a circumstance rather remarkable

considering that this was the only bird of that species seen on this side

the mountains besides the one we saw on Pigeon Ponds on the 3rd of

August. On returning to the camp I found that the carts had arrived soon

after my departure in the morning; but the men had the misfortune to lose

two bullocks in crossing the swampy stream where we had been previously

encamped. One was suffocated in the mud, and the other having lain down

in it could not be made to rise. By observing the stars alpha and beta

Centauri I ascertained the magnetic variation to be 3 degrees 2 minutes

45 seconds East, and by the sun’s altitude observed this day at Mount

Napier I found the latitude of that hill to be 37 degrees 52 minutes 29

seconds South.

September 11.

In order to lighten the carts as much as possible I caused the

packsaddles to be placed on the spare bullocks, and various articles

carried upon them; thus lightening to less than eight hundredweight each

the loads of two of the heavy carts which had narrow wheels and sunk most

in the ground. The old cover of the boat carriage was also laid aside,

and in its place some tarpaulins which had previously added to the loads

were laid across our remaining boat. A heavy jack used to raise

cartwheels was also left at this camp, and some iron bars that had been

taken from the boat-carriage when it was shortened. Thus lightened we

proceeded once more into the fields of mud, taking a northerly direction.

For several miles we encountered worse ground than we had ever crossed

before yet the carts came over it; but broad swamps still lay before us.

SWAMPS HARDER THAN THE GROUND AROUND THEM.

Despairing at length of being able to avoid them, I impatiently galloped

my horse into one and the carts followed, thanks to my impatience for

once, for I do not think that I should otherwise have discovered that a

swamp so uninviting could possibly have borne my horse, and still less

the carts. After this I ventured to pursue a less circuitous route.

AGAIN REACH THE GOOD COUNTRY.

About that time a yellow flower in the grass caught my eye and,

remembering that we had seen none of these golden flowers since we left

the beautiful valley of the Wannon, I ventured to hope that we were at

length approaching the good country at the head of that stream. Such was

my anxious wish when I perceived through the trees a glimpse of an open

grassy country, and immediately entered a fine clear valley with a lively

little stream flowing westward through it and which I named the Grange.

This was indeed one of the heads of the Wannon and we had at length

reached the good country. The contrast between it and that from which we

had emerged was obvious to all; even to the natives who for the first

time painted themselves in the evening and danced a spirited corrobory on

the occasion. This day Piper had seen two of the native inhabitants and

had endeavoured to persuade them to come to me, but all to no purpose

until at length, enraged at the unreasonable timidity of one of them, he

threw his tomahawk at him and nearly hit him as he edged off; an act of

which, as I told him in the strongest terms, I very much disapproved.

September 12.

The course of the little stream being to the northward, I proceeded along

its right bank this morning until it turned to the north-west; but we

soon after came to another to which the former seemed to be but a

tributary. Its course was almost due west, and the valley in which it

flowed was deep and boldly escarped. The stream thundered along with

considerable rapidity over a rocky bottom consisting of the same sort of

trap or ancient lava. I had little doubt that this was the principal head

of the Wannon, a river crossed by us on the 11th of August. Meeting next

an important branch falling into it from the south-east and being obliged

to cross this, we effected the passage even with the carts, although the

horses were nearly swimming. We proceeded next along a continuous ridge

of fine firm ground covered with excellent grass, and soon after we saw

before us a smaller stream flowing under a broad grassy vale and, having

crossed it also without difficulty, we encamped in one of the valleys

beyond, where this tributary appeared to originate. A finer country could

scarcely be imagined: enormous trees of the mimosa or wattle of which the

bark is so valuable grew almost everywhere; and several new varieties of

Caladenia were found today. The blue, yellow, pink, and brown-coloured

were all observed on these flowery plains.

MOUNTS BAINBRIGGE AND PIERREPOINT.

The sublime peaks of the Grampians began to appear above the trees to the

northward, and two lower hills of trap-rock arose, one to the south-west

the other north-west of our camp. That to the northward I named Mount

Bainbrigge, the other on the south Mount Pierrepoint.

September 13.

We broke up our camp early this morning and on reaching the highest

ground we discovered a large lake on our left: it was nearly circular,

about half a mile in circumference and surrounded by high firm banks from

which there was no visible outlet; I named it Lake Nivelle. At a few

miles beyond this lake the cheering sight of an open country extending to

the horizon first appeared through the trees; and we soon entered on

these fine downs where the gently undulating surface was firm under our

horses’ feet and thickly clothed with excellent grass.

MOUNT STURGEON.

The cartwheels trundled merrily along, so that twelve miles were

accomplished soon after midday, and we encamped near the extreme southern

point of the Grampians, which I named Mount Sturgeon. The weather was

very wet but this troubled us the less as we had not known a day without

rain for several months.

August 18.

An uncommonly fine morning succeeded a clear frosty night. The boats were
hoisted out to be launched once on the bosom of the newly discovered
Glenelg; and they were loaded with what the party going with them might
require for ten days. I left with Mr. Stapylton instructions that the men
under his charge should move up to and occupy the round point of the
hill, a position which I named Fort O’Hare in memory of a truly brave
soldier, my commanding officer who fell at Badajoz in leading the forlorn
hope of the Light Division to the storm.

MR. STAPYLTON LEFT WITH A DEPOT AT FORT O’HARE.
At twelve o’clock I embarked on the river with sixteen men in two boats,
leaving eight with Mr. Stapylton in the depot.

CHARACTER OF THE RIVER.
We met with many dead trees for the first mile or two, but none of these
either prevented or delayed our passage; and the river then widened into
fine reaches wholly clear of timber, so that the passage further down was
quite uninterrupted. The scenery on the banks was pleasing and various:
at some points picturesque limestone cliffs overhung the river, and
cascades flowed out of caverns hung with stalactites; at others the
shores were festooned with green dripping shrubs and creepers, or
terminated in a smooth grassy bank sloping to the water’s edge. But none
of the banks consisted of water-worn earth; they were in general low and
grassy, bounding the alluvial flats that lay between the higher points of
land. Within the first three or four miles from Fort O’Hare two
tributaries joined the main stream from the right or westward, and one
from the left or eastward: one of the former ending in a noisy cascade at
the junction. The river soon opened to a uniform width of sixty yards,
its waters being everywhere smooth and unruffled and the current scarcely
perceptible.

Ornithorynchus paradoxus.

Ducks were always to be seen in the reaches before us, and very

frequently the Ornithorynchus paradoxus, an animal which had not, I

believe, been hitherto seen so near the sea. After rowing about sixteen

miles we landed on the left bank near a cascade falling from under a

limestone cliff and there we encamped for the night. The sun was setting

in a cloudless sky while I eagerly ascended the highest cliffs in hopes

of obtaining a sight of the coast, but nothing was visible beyond a

gently undulating woody country, some swamps alone appearing in it to the

westward. The land about the cliffs of limestone was tolerably good and

grassy, but towards the end of this day’s pull forests of the stringybark

sort of eucalyptus, having in them trees of large dimensions, closed on

the river. We endeavoured but in vain to catch fish, and whether the

waters contained the cod-perch (Gristes peelii) or not remained a

question. Our position and our prospects were now extremely interesting

and throughout the night I was impatient for the light of the next day.

COURSE OF THE RIVER.

August 19.

I arose at three in order to determine the latitude more exactly by the

altitude of various stars then approaching the meridian. These were Aries

and Menkar; while the two feet of the Centaur, both fine circumpolar

stars, were so steadily reflected in the placid stream that I obtained by

that means the altitude of both BELOW THE POLE. It was most essential to

the accuracy of my survey of the river that I should determine the

latitude as frequently and exactly as possible. The sun afterwards rose

in a cloudless sky and I ascertained the breadth of the river by means of

a micrometer telescope to be exactly 70 yards. We continued our

interesting voyage and found the river of very uniform width and that its

depth increased.

The current was slower but still perceptible although we found the water

had ebbed six inches during the night an indication that it was already

influenced by the tide although it tasted perfectly fresh. At a place

where I observed the sun’s meridian altitude I found the breadth on

measurement to be 71 yards and the depth on sounding, 4 1/2, 3 1/2 and 3

fathoms. The direction of the course had there however changed. To the

camp of last night it had been remarkably straight towards

south-south-east although full of turnings being what may be termed

straight serpentine,* and I had accordingly expected to find the estuary

at Portland Bay in which case it was likely to be sheltered sufficiently

by Cape Nelson to form a harbour. Now however the general course was

nearly west and it preserved the same general direction without much

winding during the progress we made throughout the day. I had therefore

every reason to suppose that it would thus terminate in the wide bay

between Cape Northumberland and Cape Bridgewater. The scenery on the long

reaches was in many places very fine from the picturesque character of

the limestone-rock and the tints and outline of the trees, shrubs, and

creepers upon the banks. In some places stalactitic grottoes covered with

red and yellow creepers overhung or enclosed cascades; at other points

casuarinae and banksia were festooned with creeping vines whose hues of

warm green or brown were relieved by the grey cliffs of more remote

reaches as they successively opened before us.

(*Footnote. See Colonel Jackson’s paper also referred to above.)

BLACK SWANS.

Black swans being numerous, we shot several; and found some eggs which we

thought a luxury among the bulrushes at the water’s edge. But we had

left, as it seemed, all the good grassy land behind us; for the

stringybark and a species of Xanthorrhoea (grass-tree) grew to the

water’s edge both where the soil looked black and rich and where it

possessed that red colour which distinguishes the best soil in the

vicinity of limestone rock. One or two small tributaries joined the river

the principal one coming from the left bank at that point or angle where

the great change takes place in its course. When the sun was near setting

we put ashore on this bank and from a tree on the highest part of the

country behind it we now once again saw Mount Gambier bearing 57 degrees

West of North.

WATER BRACKISH.

Here the water was slightly brackish but still very good for use; the

saltness being most perceptible when the water was used for tea. The

river had increased considerably both in width and depth; for here the

measured breadth was 101 yards and the mean depth five fathoms. (See

section on general Map.) It was upon the whole considering the permanent

fulness of its stream the character of its banks and uniformity of width

and depth the finest body of fresh water I had seen in Australia; and our

hopes were that day sanguine that we should find an outlet to the sea of

proportionate magnitude.

August 20.

This morning I found there was a rise of six inches in the river,

evidently the effect of tide as the water was brackish although still fit

for use. The reach on which we embarked afforded us a view for a mile

further down the river; the vista being truly picturesque and with the

interest attached to the scene it looked indeed quite enchanting. We

pulled on through the silent waters, awakening the slumbering echoes with

many a shot at the numerous swans or ducks. At length another change took

place in the general course of the river which from west turned to

east-south-east. The height of the banks appeared to diminish rapidly and

a very numerous flock of the small sea-swallow or tern indicated our

vicinity to the sea. The slow-flying pelican also with its huge bill

pursued, regardless of strangers its straight-forward course over the

waters.

ISLE OF BAGS.

A small bushy island next came in sight having on it some rocks

resembling what we should have thought a great treasure then, a pile of

flour-bags and we named it accordingly the Isle of Bags.

ARRIVAL AT THE SEACOAST.

Soon after passing the island a few low, sandy-looking hills appeared

before us; and we found ourselves between two basins where in the water

was very shallow although we had sounded just previously to entering one

of them in four fathoms. The widest lay directly before us but having no

outlet we steered into the other on the right and on rounding a low rocky

point we saw the green rolling breakers of the sea through an opening

which proved to be the mouth of the river. It consisted of two low rocky

points and as soon as we had pulled outside of them we landed on the

eastern one. In the two basins we had seen there was scarcely sufficient

water to float the boats and thus our hopes of finding a port at the

mouth of this fine river were at once at an end. The sea broke on a sandy

beach outside and on ascending one of the sandhills near it I perceived

Cape Northumberland; the rocks outside called the Carpenters bearing 7

degrees 20 minutes South of West (variation 3 degrees 30 minutes) and

being distant, as I judged, about fifteen miles. Mount Gambier bore 23

degrees 40 minutes North of West and a height which seemed near the

extreme point of the coast on the eastward and which I therefore took for

Cape Bridge water bore 52 degrees East of South.

DISCOVERY BAY.

These points seemed distant from each other about forty miles; the line

of coast between forming one grand curve or bay which received this river

at the deepest part and which I now named Discovery Bay.

MOUTH OF THE GLENELG.

There was no reef of rocks upon the bar; a circumstance to be regretted

in this case for it was obvious that the entrance to this fine river and

the two basins was choked merely by the sand thrown up by the sea. The

river was four fathoms deep, the water being nearly fresh enough for use

within sight of the shore. Unfortunately perhaps for navigation there is

but little tide on that coast; the greatest rise in the lower part of the

river (judging by the floating weeds) did not exceed a foot. I was too

intent on the completion of my survey to indulge much in contemplating

the welcome sight of old ocean; but when a plank was picked up by the men

on that desolate shore and we found the initials IWB and the year 1832

carved on wood which had probably grown in old England the sea really

seemed like home to us. Although it was low water a boat might easily

have been got out and it is probable that in certain states of the tide

and sand small craft might get in; but I nevertheless consider the mouth

of this river quite unavailable as a harbour.

WATERHOLES DUG IN THE BEACH.

Near the beach were holes dug apparently by the natives in which we found

the water perfectly sweet. The hills sheltering the most eastern of the

two basins were well wooded as were also those behind. The line of

sandhills on the beach seemed to rise into forest hills at about five

miles further eastward and all those in the west to within a short

distance of the coast were equally woody. The day was squally with rain;

nevertheless during an interval of sunshine I obtained the sun’s meridian

altitude making the latitude 38 degrees 2 minutes 58 seconds South. I

also completed by two P.M. my survey of the mouth of the river and

adjacent country; and we then again embarked to return a few miles up the

river and encamp where wood and water were at hand. On reentering the

river from the sea I presented the men with a bottle of whisky with which

it was formally named the Glenelg after the present Secretary of State

for the Colonies according to my previous intention.

REMARKABLE HOLLOW.

August 21.

We had encamped in a rather remarkable hollow on the right bank at the

extreme western bend of the river. There was no modern indication that

water either lodged in or ran through that ravine although the channel

resembled in width the bed of some considerable tributary; the rock

presenting a section of cliffs on each side and the bottom being broad

but consisting of black earth only in which grew trees of eucalyptus. I

found on following it some way up that it led to a low tract of country

which I regretted much I could not then examine further. I found shells

embedded in limestone varying considerably in its hardness being

sometimes very friable and the surface in some places presenting

innumerable fragments of corallines, with pectens, spatangi, echini,

ostrea and foraminifera.

LIMESTONE CAVERN.

In the opposite bank of the river I found several thin strata of compact

chert containing probably fragments of corallines, not only on the

surface but embedded in the limestone. In pulling up the river this

morning we observed a cavern or opening in the side of the limestone rock

and having ascended to it by means of a rope we entered with lights. It

proved to be only a large fissure and after penetrating about 150 yards

underground we met with red earth, apparently fallen from the surface. We

found at the mouth of the fissure some fine specimens of shells, coral,

and other marine productions, embedded in several thin strata of a

coarser structure under one of very compact limestone upwards of 20 feet

thick.*

(*Footnote. In the fragments brought home Mr. George Sowerby found a

nucula, very much resembling some species of South America although not

like any from Australia. Portions of lucinae, echinus, spatangi, and

turritella or melania, were comprised in specimens from a softer stratum

which was the lowest.)

ONE FISH CAUGHT IN THE GLENELG.

While the people in the boat awaited us there a fish was taken by

Muirhead who had also caught the first fish in the river Darling. That of

the Glenelg was a saltwater fish known at Sydney by the name of Snapper.*

(*Footnote. This was the only fish caught in the Glenelg notwithstanding

the men threw in their lines whenever we encamped on its banks. The

weather was too cold for it was evident the river did contain fish from

the trellised work which the natives had set across it in the upper

parts.)

STORMY WEATHER.

The weather was more moderate today although still showery; and the

scenery as we proceeded upwards was very picturesque and full of variety.

At sunset we encamped about a mile and a half short of our camp of the

18th and just as the trees were groaning under a heavy squall which

obliged us to land on the first spot where sufficient room was left in

the thick woods for our tents. This spot happened to be on a steep bit of

bank; and in the evening I was called in haste to a new danger. The wind

had suddenly changed and blew with great fury filling my tent with sparks

from a large fire which burnt before it. I had placed in it according to

usual custom our stock of ammunition in a keg; and notwithstanding these

precautions its preservation now between the two elements of fire and

water was rather doubtful. We contrived however to avert the danger and

were no more disturbed during the night except by the storm.

RETURN TO THE DEPOT.

August 22.

The squally weather continued until noon when sunbeams again adorned the

river-scenery. We met with no impediment in the current until within

about six miles of the depot camp when dead trees in the channel began

again to appear; but we passed them all without hindrance and reached

Fort O’Hare at two o’clock where we found all well. Mr. Stapylton had set

Vulcan to repair the broken chains etc., a ford had been cleared across

the stream from the north-east which I named the Crawford; and the cattle

being refreshed we were once more in trim to continue the land journey.

The height of the water in the river had undergone no change during our

absence and was probably about its usual level there although I observed

abundant marks of flood in the branches of trees where dry floated matter

remained at the height of fifteen feet above the water as it stood then.

The rock about this position consisted of limestone apparently similar to

that seen on its banks higher up. (See August 15.) It possessed a

stalactitic aspect by the infiltration of calcareous matter and in

crevices below I found a reddish stalagmite containing grains of sand.

Large petrified oyster shells lay loosely about the bank above these

cliffs. No natives had approached the depot during our absence and we had

indeed reason to believe that the adjacent country contained but few

inhabitants.

DIFFERENCE IN LONGITUDE.

During the afternoon I laid down my survey of the estuary of the Glenelg

and completed by 10 P.M., not only my plan of it but that of the river

also. I found a considerable difference between the result of my survey

and the Admiralty charts not only in the longitude but also in the

relative position of the two capes with respect to Mount Gambier a

solitary hill easily recognised.*

(*Footnote. At that time I supposed the difference had arisen from some

error or omission in my map and took much pains to discover it; but not

having succeeded my work having also closed to a mile and three-quarters

on my return to the country connected by trigonometrical survey with

Sydney I have been obliged to represent these parts of the coast

according to this land survey.)

LEAVE THE GLENELG AND TRAVEL EASTWARD.

August 23.

Having at length disposed of the course of the Glenelg, my next object

was to cross and examine the high ground which enclosed its basin on the

east supplying those tributaries which the river received from its left

bank, and evidently extending from the Grampians to Cape Bridgewater. I

had named this the Rifle range in crossing that branch of it extending

north-westward when I ascertained its characteristics to be lofty woods

and swamps; but its ramifications in other directions and how it was

connected backwards with the mountains still remained to be discovered;

and from what I did know of this range I apprehended considerable

difficulty in getting over it with our heavy carriages at such a season.

That we might if possible escape the bogs, I devoted the day to an

extensive reconnaissance of the country before us; my guide in this case

being the river Crawford which, flowing in deep ravines, was likely to

afford (so long as its general course continued to be nearly parallel to

our route) one means at least of avoiding those soft swampy flats which

could not possibly impede us so long as the side of such a ravine as that

of the river was within reach. I had the good fortune to find that the

range in general was firm under the hoof, and its direction precisely

such as I wished. Extensive swamps occasionally appeared on my right; but

I had on the left the deep ravines of the Crawford, and I travelled

across the highest slopes of the ground. Having thus found good sound

turf for twelve miles in the direction in which I wished to take the

carriages, I returned on descending from a trap range where the rock

consisted of granular felspar and hornblende with crystals of glassy

felspar. On this hill the soil was exceedingly rich and the grass green

and luxuriant. I obtained thence a most useful bearing on Mount Gambier,

and saw also some heights to the eastward beyond the Rifle range. The

timber grew to an enormous size on the ranges which I traversed this day;

it consisted chiefly of that species of eucalyptus known as stringybark.

Some of the trees we measured were 13 feet and one as much as 14 1/2 feet

in circumference, and 80 feet was no uncommon height. The fallen timber

was of such magnitude as to present a new impediment to our progress for

we had not previously met with such an obstruction on any journey.

CROSS THE CRAWFORD.

August 24.

The carriages were taken across the Crawford without much delay

considering its depth and the softness of the banks. The carts sank at

least five feet in the water yet nothing was damaged for we had taken

care to pack the flour and other perishable articles on the tops of the

loads. We succeeded in crossing the rivulets at the heads of several

ravines by filling up their channels with logs; and thus, after crossing

the last of these, and ascending the steep bank beyond it, we encamped

after a journey of seven miles. The weather had been stormy on both days

since I crossed the Crawford, a circumstance very much against our

progress. Near this camp we found a new Correa, resembling C. virens but

having distinctly cordate toothed leaves with less down on their

underside and a much shorter calyx.*

(*Footnote. C. cordifolia, Lindley manuscripts; stellato-tomentosa,

foliis subsessilibus cordatis ovatis denticulatis obtusis planis supra

glabris, corollis tubulosis cernuis, calyce truncato brevissimo.)

BOGGY CHARACTER OF ITS SOURCES.

August 25.

In our progress eastward we were still governed by the line of the

Crawford; and the tortuous direction of the ravines connected with it

required constant attention, while the very variable character of the

swamps at the head of them was still more perplexing. We succeeded in

finding a passage between all this day also and, on again crossing a

small mountain torrent by filling up the chasm with dead timber, we

encamped after another journey of seven miles. On our left to the

northward lay a deep valley in which we found a broad sheet of water

covered with ducks, the banks being soft and overgrown with reeds. A

considerable stream flowed westward from this lake through a narrow part

of the valley, so that I concluded we were still on the principal branch

of the Crawford. Trees of large dimensions were abundant and the fallen

timber impeded our progress even more than any unusual softness of the

earth.

August 26.

After proceeding several miles without lett or hindrance, having

successfully crossed some swampy rivulets all flowing to the left amidst

thick scrubs, we at length arrived at a watercourse in which my horse

went down, and which filled a very wide swampy bed enclosed by a thick

growth of young mimosa trees, through which it was necessary to cut a

passage wide enough for the carts. The scrub having been thus cleared to

the extent of about 100 yards with much labour, I found only then

unfortunately that although the roots grew very closely, and that water

flowed over the surface, the earth was withal so soft that I could at

every point with ease push a stick five feet down without reaching any

firm bottom. The loose cattle were driven in, an experiment which until

then we had tried with success in doubtful places, but they with

difficulty got across this, for one of them sank and could not be

extricated without considerable delay. While the men were busily employed

there I rode to the head of the swamp which extended about a mile to the

southward. On this swampy plain I at length succeeded in finding, with

Mr. Stapylton’s assistance, a line of route likely to bear the carts and

we passed safely in that direction, not one carriage having gone down.

While on this swampy surface we distinctly heard the breakers of the sea

apparently at no great distance to the south-west, and I was convinced

that the head of this swamp was about the highest ground immediately

adjacent to Discovery Bay. On travelling a mile and a half further we

reached a small rivulet, the first we had crossed flowing to the south.

Beyond it the country appeared open and good, consisting of what is

termed forest land with casuarinae and banksia growing upon it.

RECROSS THE RIFLE RANGE.

We had at length reached the highest parts of the range and were about to

descend into the country beyond it. We continued to travel a considerable

distance further than the rivulet flowing to the south. Crossing others

running northward or to the left, and leaving also on the same side a

swamp, we finally came to a higher range clothed with trees of gigantic

size, attesting the strength and depth of the soil, and here enormous old

trunks obstructed our passage, covering the surface so as to form an

impediment almost as great to us as the swampy ground had been; but this

large timber so near the coast was an important feature in that country.

Piper, having climbed to the top of one of these trees, perceived some

fine green hills to the south-east, saying they were very near us and

that the sea was visible beyond them. It was late in the afternoon when I

reluctantly changed my intended route, which had been until then

eastward, to proceed in the direction recommended by Piper, or to the

south-east and so to follow down a valley, instead of my proposed route

which had been along a favourable range.

HEAVY TIMBER THE CHIEF IMPEDIMENT.

I had still less reason to be satisfied with the change when, after

pushing my horse through thick scrubs and bogs until twilight and looking

in vain for a passage for the carts, I encountered at length bushes so

thickly set and bogs so soft that any further progress in that direction

was out of the question; and thus on the evening when I hoped to have

entered a better sort of country after so successful a passage of the

range we encamped where but little grass could be found for the cattle,

our tents being not only under lofty trees but amongst thick bushes and

bogs during very rainy weather.

TRAVELLING ALSO DIFFICULT FROM THE SOFTNESS OF THE GROUND.

August 27.

I was so anxious to get into open ground again that, as soon as daylight

permitted, I carefully examined the environs of our camp, and I found

that we occupied a broad flat where the drainage from the hills met and

spread among bushes, so that at one time I almost despaired of

extricating the party otherwise than by returning to the hill at which I

had first altered my route. The track we made had been however so much

cut up by our wheels that I preferred the chance of finding a passage

northward which, of course, was also less out of our way. We reached an

extremity of the hill (the nearest to us on that side) with much less

difficulty than I had reason to apprehend and, keeping along that

feature, we soon regained a range which led us east-north-east. By

proceeding in this direction however we could not avoid the passage of a

valley where the water was not confined to any channel, but spread and

lodged on a wide tract of very soft ground, also covered with mimosa

bushes and a thick growth of young saplings of eucalyptus. The light

carts and the first heavy cart got over this soft ground or bog, but the

others and the boat carriage sank up to the axles so that we were obliged

to halt after having proceeded about five miles only. This was near a

fine forest-hill consisting of trap-rock in a state of decomposition, but

apparently similar to that of the trap-rock I had ascended on the 23rd of

August; and from a tree there Burnett thought he saw the sea to the

north-east, and even to the northward of a remarkable conical hill. The

discovery of the sea in that direction was so different from the

situation of the shore as laid down on the maps that I began to hope an

inlet might exist there as yet undiscovered, the “Cadong,” perhaps, of

the native woman, “where white men had never been.”*

(*Footnote. See above.)

EXCURSION SOUTHWARD TO PORTLAND BAY.

I had now proceeded far enough to the eastward to be able to examine the

coast about Portland Bay and extend my survey to the capes in its

neighbourhood, the better to ascertain their longitude. I therefore

determined to make an excursion in that direction and thus afford time

not only for the extrication of the heavy carts still remaining in the

mud but also for the repose of the cattle after their labours.

August 28.

By the survey proposed I hoped to extend my map of the country

sufficiently in that direction to be at liberty, on my return to the

party, to pursue a route directly homeward; not doubting that at a short

distance to the northward of our camp we should again enter the beautiful

open country which, when seen from the mouth of the Wannon, seemed to

extend as far as could be seen to the eastward. In our ride to the south

we reached, at four miles from the boggy ground, a fine green hill

consisting of trap-rock and connected with a ridge of the same

description which extended about two miles further to the southward.

MOUNT ECKERSLEY.

There we found it to terminate abruptly in a lofty brow, quite clear of

timber and commanding an extensive view to the east and south over a much

lower country. This hill had a very remarkable feature–a deep chasm

separating it from the ridge behind, the sides being so steep as to

present a section of the trap-rock which consisted principally of compact

felspar. The hill which I named Mount Eckersley was covered, as well as

the ridge to which it belonged, with a luxuriant crop of anthisterium, or

kangaroo grass. Unfortunately the weather was squally but, by awaiting

the intervals between clouds on the horizon, I obtained angles at length

on nearly all the distant hills, the waters of Portland Bay just

appearing in the south over an intervening woody ridge. From this hill I

recognised a very conspicuous flat-topped hill to the northward which had

been previously included in a series of angles observed on the 12th

instant from the valley of the Wannon and which I now named Mount Napier.

Portland Bay was distant about fifteen miles but the intervening country

seemed so low, and swamps entirely clear of timber appeared in so many

places, that I could scarcely hope to get through it: knowing it to

contain all the water from those boggy valleys where our progress had

been already so much impeded. Smoke arose from various parts of the lower

country–a proof that at least some dry land was there. We were provided

with horses only, and therefore desperately determined to flounder

through or even to swim if necessary, we thrust them down the hill. On

its side we met an emu which stood and stared, apparently fearless as if

the strange quadrupeds had withdrawn its keen eye from the more familiar

enemies who bestrode them. In the lower country we saw also a kangaroo,

an animal that seldom frequents marshy lands. I was agreeably surprised

to find also, on descending, that the rich grass extended among the trees

across the lower country; and I was still more pleased on coming to a

fine running stream at about three miles from the hill and after crossing

a tract of land of the richest description. Reeds grew thickly amongst

the long grass, and the ground appeared to be of a different character

from any that I had previously seen. This seemed to be just such land as

would produce wheat during the driest seasons and never become sour even

in the wettest, such as this season undoubtedly was.

CROSS THE FITZROY.

The timber was thin and light and, with a fine deep stream flowing

through it, the tract which at first sight from Mount Eckersley I had

considered so sterile and wet proved to be one likely at no distant day

to smile under luxuriant crops of grain. We found the river (which I

named the Fitzroy) fordable, although deep at the place where we first

came upon it. Shady trees of the mimosa kind grew along the banks and the

earth was now good and firm on both sides. We heard the natives as we

approached this stream and cooeyed to them; but our calls had only the

effect, as appeared from the retiring sound of their voices, of making

them run faster away. Continuing our ride southward we entered at two

miles beyond the Fitzroy a forest of the stringybark eucalyptus; and

although the anthisterium still grew in hollows I saw swampy open flats

before us which I endeavoured to avoid, sometimes by passing between them

and finally by turning to a woody range on the left. I ascended this

range as night came on, in hopes of finding grass for our horses; but

there the mimosa and xanthorrhoea alone prevailed–the latter being a

sure indication of sterility and scanty vegetation. We found naked ground

higher up consisting of deep lagoons and swamps amongst which I was

satisfied with my success in passing through in such a direction as

enabled me to regain, in a dark and stormy night, the shelter of the

woods on the side of the range. But I sought in vain for the grass, so

abundant elsewhere on this day’s ride, and we were at length under the

necessity of halting for the night where but little food could be found

for our horses, and under lofty trees that creaked and groaned to the

blast.

August 29.

The groaning trees had afforded us shelter without letting fall even a

single branch upon our heads,* but the morning was squally and

unfavourable for the objects of the excursion, and we had still to ride

some way before I could commence operations. Proceeding along the skirts

of the woody ridge on the left in order to avoid swamps, we at length saw

through the trees the blue waters of the sea and heard the roar of the

waves.

(*Footnote. The Australian woods are in general very brittle, and no

experienced bushman likes to sleep under trees, especially during high

winds.)

CROSS THE SURRY.

My intended way towards the deepest part of the bay and the hills beyond

it did not lead directly to the shore, and I continued to pursue a course

through the woods, having the shore on our left. We thus met a deep and

rapid little river exactly resembling the Fitzroy and coming also from

the westward. Tracing this a short distance upwards we came to a place

set with a sort of trelliswork of bushes by the natives for the purpose,

no doubt, of catching fish. Here we found the stream fordable though

deep; a brownish granular limestone appearing in the bank. We crossed and

then continuing through a thick wood we came out at length on the shore

of Portland Bay at about four miles beyond the little river.

LADY JULIA PERCY’S ISLE.

Straight before us lay Laurence’s Island, or rather, islands, there being

two small islets of rock in that situation; and, some way to the eastward

I perceived a much larger island which I concluded was one of Lady Julia

Percy’s Isles. At a quarter of a mile back from the beach broad

broom-topped casuarinae were the only trees we could see; these grew on

long ridges parallel to the beach, resembling those long breakers which,

aided by winds, had probably thrown such ridges up. They were abundantly

covered with excellent grass and, as it wanted about an hour of noon, I

halted that the cattle might feed while I took some angles and

endeavoured to obtain the sun’s altitude during the intervals between

heavy squalls, some of which were accompanied by hail and thunder.